Les Caves Saint-Gilles, an authentic tapas bar as lively as in Spain

Bubbling and noisy as Spain, Caves Saint-Gilles is reborn with a new owner. Here, we devour Iberian tapas and generous paella while toasting with a pitcher of well-dosed sangria!

The address has been known for over thirty years to partygoers and lovers of Spanish cuisine in search of an ebullient address. In the new year, Caves Saint-Gilles, a little Iberian corner on the edge of the Marais, is getting a facelift with a new owner, Alexandre Chapon, already owner of Chez Julien andEnoteca, and a new room manager, Jorge, who has worked at Le Murat and Chez Julien.

Founded in 1982, Caves Saint-Gilles was one of the capital's first tapas bars. Open from midday to 1 a.m., the new edition of Caves Saint-Gilles aims to take up the torch of this legendary address, led by a team of mostly Spanish-speaking natives who are devilishly hospitable, happy and cheerful.

Like a real Spanish tavern, the Caves Saint-Gilles is bubbling and noisy, with loud conversations, full-throated laughter, flamenco tunes and finger-pointing orders if you're reluctant to try your hand at pronouncing Hispanic specialities - all the while following the good recommendations of the waiters and waitresses, who are always willing to help.

In addition to the change of team and management, Les Caves has been given a new face covered in azulejo mosaics. The only vestige of the past is the imposing central bar in oak and pewter, where cold beers, tinto de verrano (€7) and pitchers of sangria by the liter (€23) wait to be served. The staircase leads to an astonishing room covered from wall to ceiling with mirrors, a sort of discreet speakeasy in homage to Spanish culture, where you can listen to flamenco and read Tintin in Spanish.

For a slice of Hispanic sunshine, there's no better way than to indulge in the multitude of hot tapas (€8.50-€15), croquetas, patatas bravas, tortilla, pimientos de padron, calamari, octopus, chorizo with cider and other chipirons à la plancha de compétition (€14).

As soon as the mercury rises in the thermometers, there's nothing like cold tapas (7€-20€), typical Russian salad, bellota, pan con tomate, manchego to eat with your fingers and salmorejo (6€), an amazing cold Andalusian soup made from tomato, bread and garlic.

But the centerpiece of the Caves Saint-Gilles menu is unquestionably the paella, prepared to the highest standards and renowned beyond the borders of the Marais. This hearty dish can be enjoyed in a classic version (23€/person) with superb prawns, mussels, clams and squid, or in a deep black version with squid ink (21€)!

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.