The history of Paris's great restaurants: La Tour d'Argent and its numbered ducks

Perched on the banks of the Seine opposite Notre-Dame de Paris, La Tour d'Argent is a centuries-old Parisian institution that has been blending legend and gastronomy for centuries. La Tour d'Argent's history is based as much on archives as on stories, and every nook and cranny of its rooms tells a story of Paris.

Since the 16ᵉ century, this restaurant frequented by heads of state and celebrities has overlooked the waves in a setting rich in tradition and symbolism. Discover its history and exceptional panorama.

An address born in the time of Henri III

It was in 1582, during the reign ofHenri III, that a certain cook named Rourteau set up an inn on the banks of the Seine, on the Quai de la Tournelle. The name Tour d'Argent is said to have come from the nearby Château de la Tournelle, whose white stone is said to have given it its name, evoking the brilliance of silver. At the time, the inn welcomed travelers and notables in a Paris that was still medieval, but undergoing profound transformation. Legend has it thatHenri IV used a fork here for the first time, anxious not to soil his immaculate fraise, the lace collar emblematic of court fashion.

These tales are appealing but uncertainly documented (maps of Paris from 17ᵉ and 18ᵉ do not yet cite the establishment in its current form, and the Quai de la Tournelle itself was not paved until the mid-17ᵉ. What is known with certainty is that by the mid-19ᵉ century the address had been transformed into a prestigious restaurant, with numbers 15 and 17 of the Quai becoming the precincts of what was to become the modern establishment.

The Delair turning point, the birth of the mythical duckling

It wasn't until 1890 that the establishment truly became a gastronomic legend. That year, Frédéric Delair, maître d'hôtel and then owner, codified a ritual that would become the house signature: the Tour d'Argent duckling, served to the press in the dining room and numbered.

Delair introduced the famous ritual of duck numbering: each duckling served is numbered, and the final cut is made in front of the customer, with a silver press to exude the last drops into the sauce. This dish, later christened the Caneton Tour d'Argent, would become the Maison's symbolic culinary masterpiece. This dish is both a tribute to theart of service and a demonstration of technique.

The Terrail family dynasty

In 1911, André Terrail, a fine gourmet and visionary, took over the Tour d'Argent. He modernized the establishment, restructured the building and transformed the inn into a truly prestigious restaurant. In particular, he installed a top-floor dining room with a panoramic view of Paris, which would become one of the most emblematic elements of the experience. His son, Claude Terrail, succeeded him after the Second World War. A tireless ambassador for French gastronomy, he gave the Tour d'Argent worldwide renown, hosting royalty, presidents, film stars, writers and gastronomes. Since 2006, André Terrail, André's grandson, has carried on the family legacy.

• To be read
• A brief history of Paris's great restaurants: La Lorraine, a brasserie with a taste for the sea
• A short history of the great restaurants of Paris: Gallopin, 150 years in front of the Stock Exchange
• A brief history of Paris's top restaurants: Le Pharamond, Normandy-style ambience

A dining room with Paris at its feet

One of the most memorable experiences at La Tour d'Argent is the spectacular view from the main dining room. From the bay windows, you can see Notre-Dame, the Seine, the Marais rooftops and the Parisian skyline in a single glance. The panorama is made all the more impressive by the fact that it accompanies a kitchen that also looks to both tradition and modernity. In 2023, a major renovation orchestrated by architect Franklin Azzi reconfigured the spaces while respecting the soul of the place. The decor blends precious woodwork, historical references, sober modernity and timeless elegance.

A legendary cellar

La Tour d'Argent also boasts one of the world's most exceptional cellars. Built up over the decades, it houses several hundred thousand bottles, some of them very rare, precious and historic - old vintages, cognacs from the 18ᵉ century. The cellar extends over two levels and is a veritable oenological treasure trove, carefully preserved and protected. During the Second World War, legend even has it that Claude Terrail had the cellar walled off to protect his flasks from spoliation.

A cuisine driven by excellence

Chef Yannick Franques, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, heads up the kitchens. He embodies the desire to combine respect for tradition with contemporary creativity. The menu features historic classics such as caneton à la presse, quenelles, foie gras and port sauces, as well as more contemporary creations. Even today, to dine at the Tour d'Argent is to experience a suspended moment. Everything, from the welcome to the tableware, from the service in the dining room to the wine and food pairings, is part of a setting that goes beyond the simple meal. It's an immersion in a demanding, refined and almost theatrical French tradition.