A brief history of Paris's great restaurants: Le Grand Véfour, a jewel of neo-classical art

Since 1784, Le Grand Véfour has embodied French culinary excellence in a refined setting nestled beneath the arcades of the Palais-Royal. This legendary restaurant is one of the oldest still in operation in Paris, and certainly one of the most prestigious.

Its history is intimately linked to that of the capital, blending aristocracy, revolution, haute cuisine and literary figures in an exceptional listed setting.

A gastronomic cradle born of Café de Chartres

The story begins in 1784, with the opening of Café de Chartres by lemonade maker Aubertot. Opposite the Théâtre des Petits Comédiens du comte de Beaujolais (now the Théâtre du Palais-Royal), the café immediately benefited from the effervescence of the Palais-Royal, then the nerve center of Parisian life. The gardens, opened to the public by Philippe d'Orléans, became a meeting place for writers, courtesans, revolutionaries and artists. In 1820, the café became Le Grand Véfour, in honor of its then owner.

An exceptional setting, a jewel of neo-classical art

The first thing that strikes you about Le Grand Véfour is the preservation of its original décor. Carved woodwork, antique mirrors, stucco, ceilings painted in the Pompeian style, canvases under glass depicting fish, game, flowers, female allegories... The place is listed as a Monument Historique and preserves intact the refinement of the 18ᵉ century. You enter with the sensation of stepping back in time.

A haven for writers, politicians and artists

Over the decades, Le Grand Véfour became a meeting place for the brilliant minds of their time. Napoleon Bonaparte, Victor Hugo, Colette, Jean Cocteau, Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, as well as politicians such as Gambetta and Clemenceau. It was in these salons that ideas, projects and novels were debated, between two mouthfuls of exceptional cuisine.

• To be read
• La petite histoire des grands restaurants de Paris: Bouillon Chartier, a century of modest cuisine
• A brief history of Paris's great restaurants: Bouillon Julien, a popular Art Nouveau gem
• A brief history of Paris's great restaurants: Grand Colbert, a brasserie in a spectacular setting

French gastronomy through the centuries

Le Grand Véfour has been run by great chefs, including Raymond Oliver in the 1940s. Today, the restaurant perpetuates traditional French cuisine, modernized with finesse. Signature dishes include foie gras ravioli, Prince Rainier III pigeon and the famous oxtail parmentier.

An institution in the heart of eternal Paris

Still in operation at 17 rue de Beaujolais, Le Grand Véfour remains one of the capital's oldest restaurants , and undoubtedly one of its most emblematic. Its exceptional location in the Palais-Royal, its architectural heritage and its roots in Parisian intellectual life make it a unique place, where the history of France can be read as much on the plates as on the walls.

Our review of Le Grand Véfour:

Michelin starred restaurant Le Grand Véfour renews as a bistro, our test and pictures
Le Grand Véfour signs a new page in its story. Goodbye 2 Michelin stars, hello affordable menu with market produces on the great terrace, safe from the rain and sun, across the Palais Royal garden. The team is still settling in, but the historic house is starting the year auspiciously. [Read more]