Time has passed, the chef has changed, the former owners have moved on to new adventures. But Korus remains just as it was when it opened: a restaurant worth its weight in gold, a stone's throw from the Cirque d'Hiver. The cuisine is, let's face it, even more prodigious than on our first visit, and we still don't understand how it's possible that Korus hasn't yet been rewarded for its creativity and elegance by the prestigious Red Guide.
If five years ago, we announced outright that we had "unearthed THE new gastronomic address in the 11th arrondissement", this time we're saying it without blinking: our return to Korus was one of our most admirable dining experiences in recent months. And God knows we've seen a lot of plates.
From now on, Korus gastronomy will be more open, more refined, more audacious too. You can discover it through tasting-only menus, for lunch and dinner, priced at €49 for the 4-course Tempo menu, €77 for the 7-course Opus menu and €95 for the 9-course Chorus menu.
Of course, this (very) fine cuisine is accompanied by expertly crafted beverages, by the glass, bottle or wine pairing (€42 for 4 courses, €59 for 6 courses).
Supported by attentive, dynamic service, our lunch takes place under the best of auspices. Dish after dish, the creations come and go, taking a number of steps sideways into the world's cuisines, repeatedly drawing products and condiments fromSouth America (chicharrón, chulpe, lulo, aji) and Asia (chai, miso, ponzu), and even revisiting great French classics, such as bouillabaisse, with a contemporary twist.
Strong, thoughtful dishes that conceal an explosion of flavors behind meticulous, flowery presentation (salsify maki!). The result is great gastronomy, elegant, creative and masterful. Our opinion of five years ago hasn't changed one iota: Korus is a must in Paris. More in pictures.
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Chulpe gressin, tomato/onion/coriander/lulo sauce
Chicharrón and tarama and coriander aioli, dried flowers
Japanese rice and lentil arancini, mint sauce
Jonathan Maunoury's Popopop sparkling wine
Aburi shrimp, mashed carrot tops, dill oil, tomato, carrot and ginger veil
Carrot and ginger pulp, ponzu and clementine jelly, shallot pickles, carrot tops
Domaine La Bouche du Roi Chardonnay Les Louis d'Or
Maki of salsify confit with duck fat, spinach leaves, spinach curry and pan-fried chorizo
Duck sauce and chorizo oil
Pineau d'Aunis 'Grandgousier' from Domaine de Montrieux
Like bouillabaisse
Tomato/coriander/cabillaud broth, corn purée, celeriac pasta
Cuttlefish, trout roe, vanilla
Pinot gris 'Macération' from Mélanie Pfister
Steamed cod, aji sauce, verbena foam
Brussels sprouts, lamb's lettuce leaves, cashew nuts
Cuvée Mac a Bu from Vinoceros
Granny Smith apple granita, jelly
Mascarpone cream, cider foam, tagette flowers
Cocoa génoise, roasted hazelnuts, praline cream, miso diplomate cream
Orange gel, vermouth and coffee mousse
Lemon tartlet, Iranian black lemon powder
Vegetable charcoal cabbage, hibiscus cream
Apple cookie, oats, chai jelly
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After all, to hell with the red macaron for Korus, we give him our Sortir à Paris star with undisguised joy.
Please note that it's been over 4 years since our last visit, so the place and experience may have changed.
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.
Location
Korus
73 Rue Amelot
75011 Paris 11
Official website
restaurantkorus.com
More information
Wednesday to Saturday lunchtime and evening, and Sunday evening.
