If you've fallen under the spell of Bulot Bulot, the famous seafood counter in the 18th arrondissement, then you're probably familiar with Étienne Ryckeboer. More than two years after opening his first Parisian establishment, this grandson of farmers gave birth to his second baby. The name? Papi. And for this new gourmet address, Étienne Ryckeboer has chosen the capital's 9th arrondissement, a stone's throw from the Folies Bergères.
So, what does Papi have in store for you? Described as a " warm, unpretentious neighborhood restaurant ", the establishment offers a tasty " return to basics with fresh, seasonal, often local produce, sourced from responsible producers and artisans ".
To tantalize customers' taste buds, Étienne Ryckeboer has called on a crack team including talented Japanese chef Akira Sugiura (trained at the Tsuji Chou school in Tokyo and with Michelin-starred chefs in Tuscany, he also worked at Lumen), in charge of fresh pasta and desserts. For his part, Thierry Delabre, described as "the pope of sourdough ", sublimates pizza dough.
Finally, to turn Papi into a glittering, seductive place, the entrepreneur relied on the renowned firm Neri&Hu, notably responsible for the renovation of the city's Opera House. Inside, you'll fall under the spell of this modern yet friendly decor, in the shape of a circle. A word of advice: if you're looking for the perfect table for a romantic dinner, choose the one next to the large window overlooking the street.
Papi' s menu features fresh homemade pasta and pizzas made with organic flour and natural sourdough, as well as ravioli and udon inspired by Akira Sugiura's travels and discoveries. And to break the routine, the restaurant unveils a new menu every month. Better still, one or two dishes change daily.
Come on, let's be nice and drop a few dishes from the à la carte menu, just to whet your appetite. For starters, opt for quality charcuterie like this 24-month Leon beef cecina or Béarn chorizo. Otherwise, opt for equally gourmet starters like this incredible plate of veal tataki, ponzu jelly and eggplant tartar. Tastes that are mastered and just right!
We also fell for the stracciatella, delicately layered with citrus fruits, salmon roe and yuzu. Here again, the chef's harmony of flavors is a real winner.
Then, on the main course, one of the must-try dishes is the classic Margh, at just €9.50, with tomato, mozzarella, olive oil and fresh basil. Looking for originality? Discover the Gomogi with gorgonzola, mozzarella and chanterelle mushrooms, or the delicious Ibéco (tomato, 40-month Bellota ham, coppa, smoked mozzarella and arugula).
Prefer Japanese noodles? ChooseCacio e pepe-style Udon, with parmesan, butter, pepper and a perfect egg, or the incredible"mezzaluna" ravioli. We've fallen head over heels for this dish, with its subtle, masterful marriage of perfect ravioli dough, squid ink, cauliflower, anchovy and cream. A real delight!
Of course, we couldn't stop there, so we let ourselves be tempted by the sweet proposals, with, on the one hand, the poached white peach with rosemary, peach soup and sweet cream, and on the other, the delicious chocolate mousse, gianduja and cocoa crumble. A play of colors and textures that once again delighted our palates.
To accompany all this, Papi offers natural wines, sometimes organic, often French but also from other countries, all selected by sommelier Ismaël Dhaoui.
One thing's for sure: as well as delighting your taste buds and your eyes, Papi will make you feel right at home, thanks to its friendly atmosphere and warm welcome!
Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health. Drink in moderation.
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts September 1st, 2020
46 Rue Richer
75009 Paris 9
Charcuterie: €7 - €14
Dessert: €8 - €10
Entrée: €8 - €12
Pizza: €9.5 - €18
Pâte: €12 - €19
Open Monday to Saturday, 12pm to 2.15pm and 7pm to 10.30pm. Closed on Sunday 34 place settings