On the edge of Paris, in Seine-Saint-Denis, just steps from the world’s largest flea market, we’re off to discover a new neighborhood spot worth a pause: La Petite Marguerite, a flea-market bistro tucked on rue du Plaisir in Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine (93). In this corner where peddlers, thrifters and gawkers have crossed paths for more than a century, the restaurant serves generous French cooking in a setting that hides a few pretty surprises. For anyone chasing a genuine, affordable table after a long day of rummaging, this is exactly it.
The Saint-Ouen Flea Market traces its roots back to the 1870s, when rag-and-bone men driven out of Paris settled here, officially establishing the market in 1885. Since then, the neighborhood has continually reinvented itself, with bistros and guinguettes at its core. Gypsy jazz fills the cafés of the Puces, a sound born here and popularized by the legendary Django Reinhardt. In that vibrant, popular spirit, La Petite Marguerite has chosen to plant its flag—and it suits it well.
We expected a classic neighborhood bistro, and we got so much more. La Petite Marguerite unveils a spacious terrace that wraps around the restaurant, ideal as soon as the sun peeks out. The other surprise is the hidden room like a greenhouse patio, tucked away at the back of the place. A cocooning, bright and unexpected space that gives the venue a distinctive charm for group events, for example. We’d gladly settle in there for a quiet lunch or a dinner with friends, far from the bustle of the flea-market lanes just nearby.
The menu leans into French bistro fare in its comforting, unsentimental way, never aiming to overcomplicate things. In the meantime, we reach for the sure bets: radish with butter (€3), a sausage plate (€4), or, pleasantly surprising, Breton oysters no. 3 at €7 for three or €12 for six—a marine opening that's a bit unexpected for a neighborhood bouillon. The starters set the mood: frisée with lardons, celery remoulade, generous egg mayonnaise, leeks with vinaigrette, herring in oil, pâté en croûte, or a bone marrow gratin at €7 for the hearty among us. The roasted half Camembert and a slice of foie gras at €11 round out a already well-stocked starter offering.
On our end, we kicked things off with the generous œufs mayonnaise—just what we expected—and the poireaux vinaigrette, well seasoned and carefully prepared, richly garnished and with the greens as a backdrop (no waste). Two classics that immediately set the tone for the house.
The dishes fully embrace the broth-forward vibe. The hamburger with fries at €9 remains unbeatable for value, the sausage with mashed potatoes at €11 heats up the table just right, and the beef bourguignon with pasta shells at €15 is exactly what we came here for. The menu also hides a few pleasant surprises: a chicken fricassee with rice at €13, a quenelle with Nantua sauce and rice at €14, or the indulgent pasta shells with ham and truffle cream at €15 for gourmands who like to treat themselves without breaking the bank. The confit de canard with baby potatoes at €16 and the French cheeseburger with chicken, beef, or veggie options at €15 round out a menu that knows how to please everyone.
But the dish that convinced us the most was undoubtedly the house-made cordon bleu with mashed potatoes, €15 — generous, well executed, a must. The whole fish of the day with rice, €17, is also worth a detour, a good way to mix up the pleasures on a menu deeply rooted in tradition. For groups that love to share, the côte de bœuf at €6.50 per 100 g for two is a perfect excuse to linger a little longer.
Definitely. The €12 kids’ menu includes a fruit-syrup drink with water, a choice of ham with mashed potatoes, homemade chicken nuggets with fries or a hamburger with fries, and a scoop of ice cream. Simple, well thought-out, and free of surprises.
On the dessert menu, the Mont-Blanc at €6, the chocolate fondant at €6, the crumble of the moment, and the cheese trio at €7 offer options to finish the meal depending on your mood. The lovely profiterole and the crème brûlée remain dependable favorites, as does the chocolate mousse at €7.
Feedback has been positive: a warm welcome, value for money, and a pleasant setting when the weather is nice. Reservations are possible, which matters in a neighborhood that gets so busy on weekends. The only downside: the wait was a bit long during our visit.
The restaurant is easily reached by metro via line 4 (Porte de Clignancourt), line 13 (Garibaldi), or bus 85. You can book for private events.
This spot works for both families and groups of colleagues who’ve spent the day at the flea market and want a solid meal to cap it off. It delivers French bistro cooking with no fuss, fair prices, and a charming setting you wouldn’t expect on the doorstep of Paris.
Two more places to try in the same spirit:
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.
Dates and Opening Time
Next days
Thursday:
from 12:00 p.m. to 03:00 p.m.
- from 06:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Friday:
from 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Saturday:
from 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Sunday:
from 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Monday:
from 12:00 p.m. to 03:00 p.m.
- from 06:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Tuesday:
from 12:00 p.m. to 03:00 p.m.
- from 06:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Wednesday:
from 12:00 p.m. to 03:00 p.m.
- from 06:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Location
La Petite Marguerite, a flea-market broth
21 Rue du Plaisir
93400 Saint Ouen
Official website
www.marguerite-bouillon.com
Booking
bookings.zenchef.com
