Chenapan, the gourmet restaurant with its head in the stars

There are some restaurants where, from the moment you enter the restaurant - or even the amuse-bouche - you can sense that one day they'll be rubbing shoulders with the stars. Chenapan, newly opened in the SoPi district, is one of these. With its pocket-sized format - just 18 covers - and its unobstructed view of the ballet in the kitchen, Chenapan has stepped into the shoes of the Oka restaurant, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2019 and has been changing address ever since.

And what if the walls of 28 rue de la Tour d'Auvergne were enchanted and ensured that the chefs officiating there would be awarded those coveted red macaroons? At least, that's what we'd be willing to bet, given the stunning mastery of our tasting dinner at Chenapan. We're already putting a downpayment on this marvellous table, in anticipation of the Michelin 2024 - you read it here first!

It has to be said that the duo at the helm of the place didn't come out of nowhere. After seven wonderful years working together at chef William Ledeuil's Ze Kitchen Galerie, chef Bruno Laporte (who has also worked at Noma in Copenhagen and Fulgurances in Paris) and his restaurant manager Florentin Fraillon (who trained with the greats, including Robuchon and Constant) decided to open their first restaurant. A restaurant based on a virtuous and sustainable model, in the kitchen as in the dining room, respectful of its teams and the planet.

Following the chef's whims and the arrival of products from carefully selected, committed producers, Chenapan unveils two unique menus that change as often as possible, offered in 3 courses (59€) and 5 courses (79€). So don't expect to find exactly the same marvels as we did, but chances are you'll enjoy whatever's on the menu as much as we did.

Among our favorites are the wild vegetables (asparagus, broad beans) and spring herbs (arugula and mustard greens) topped with a steamy rhubarb emulsion. Springtime sensations are immediately covered by a plaid of autumnal comfort with the next dish, featuring chanterelles and Noilly-Prat, a delicate but skilfully handled change of seasons; we let ourselves be carried along.

The beet starter, with its chiselled dressings, and its surprising and explosive marriage with a peanut praline, is another fine discovery. Quite simply, from the amuse-bouche - strawberries/peas/shredded feta - to the dessert of puffed wheat, it's a flawless performance.

Appetizers

Beet, katsuobushi, peanut

Wild vegetables and spring herbs, rhubarb

Line peach, chanterelle mushrooms, Noilly-Prat

Angus beef, asparagus, wild garlic

Strawberries, elderberry

Wheat desserts

To accompany the tasting menus, Florentin Fraillon has created a list of French wines, whether natural, biodynamic or more conventional, as well as - and this is even more original - a list of soft drinks - plant macerations, de-alcoholized wines, kefir or kombucha - as close as possible to the flavor of wine.

A perfect address in every respect.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.