Brasserie Martin, the restless brewery of the Nouvelle Garde

In the La Nouvelle Garde family, we ask for Brasserie Martin, that big bistro with its colorful decor and winter garden, where gangs of friends and local families flock.

Each time, La Nouvelle Garde's restaurants are a resounding success, with both visiting tourists and local residents. After Barbès and le Sentier (and before Saint-Germain-des-Prés), the group took over the 11th arrondissement, a stone's throw from the marvellous Saint-Ambroise church, with Brasserie Martin.

A French brasserie in the image of La Nouvelle Garde's other addresses: meticulously decorated by 33 Designers and Dorénavant Studio, with a multitude of antique objects on the shelves, animal-shaped jugs and a marble counter with stools for eating in front of the open kitchen.

But Brasserie Martin has the added bonus of a winter garden, a verdant patio where you can relax and listen to the sound of the rain falling on the large glass roof, or enjoy the salutary natural light when the sun comes out. The long terrace is another great place to fill up on vitamin D when the sun comes out.

In the kitchen, too, there's quite a bit of innovation, with an enamelled rotisserie next to the ovens, where poultry and other meats are grilled; and in the basement, where a charcuterie laboratory is hidden, day after day, ham with parsley, pâté en croûte and other sausages are served with mashed potatoes.

It has to be said, Brasserie Martin is a victim of its own success, and you'll have to enjoy your lunch glued to your neighbors (not a bad way to meet new people), a little jostled by waiters twirling in all directions. The icing on the cake is the undeniably affordable prices, which mean that local families can enjoy lunch with their children. So be prepared for a lively lunchtime atmosphere, to say the least.

Locals make no mistake: Brasserie Martin is a wallet-friendly address, with starters ranging from 3€ to 14€, main courses around 15€ and desserts from 7€ to 9€. And it's all homemade by chef Antoine Casel, using seasonal French produce sourced directly from producers.

On the table at the time of our visit, a creamy homemade tarama (9€), topped with a dash of lemon olive oil, a homemade pâté en croûte (14€), with a texture more akin to a fromage de tête, a fine andouillette de Troyes with mustard (21€), a limited-edition poulet-crudités sandwich (12€), revisited by Hirmane The Dwichtorialist with shredded poultry, chicken liver and crispy chicken skin, to be dipped in the poultry juices.

And to end on a happy note, an Irish coffee (9€) made with Charentais whisky, a must-taste just a few days before St. Patrick's Day.