Brasserie des Prés, charming and affordable, the hidden gem of Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Carefully tucked away in a bucolic courtyard in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Brasserie des Prés proves to be the neighborhood's best address, as delightful and charming as it is affordable.

The Saint-Germain-des-Prés district has undergone a rejuvenation over the past few months, if not years, with the opening of a number of new restaurants, including Japanese, Italian, French and American establishments. However, it's not always easy to find an affordable restaurant in the area, as Saint-Germain has retained its German-Pratin prices from the days when it was still the epicenter of the Parisian intelligentsia.

Yet it is here that the Nouvelle Garde group has chosen to set up its new address, poetically named Brasserie des Prés. Following in the footsteps of Brasserie Bellanger, Brasserie Dubillot and Brasserie Martin, it's now (finally!) on the Left Bank that this impressively spacious new eatery can be discovered.

Hidden away in the bucolic, winding courtyard of Commerce Saint-André, with its large terrace protected from the incessant ballet of cars speeding along the adjacent boulevard, Brasserie des Prés extends over three carefully decorated levels, the fruit of a fruitful collaboration between London's B3 Designers and Dorénavant Studio. A glance into the main dining room on the first floor reveals a breathtaking convex stone wall, a silent vestige of the Paris of yesteryear.

At the helm are no less than three chefs, Théophile Hauser-Peretti, Thibaut Darteyre and Baptiste Zwygart, who brilliantly tackle the great bistro classics without going overboard. The menu is short for this type of establishment, featuring the inevitable oeufs mimosa (4€), leek vinaigrette (7€), pâté en croûte cochon/mousse de foie de volaille/pistaches (a marvel; 14€), jambon persillé worthy of the finest Burgundian tables (9€), and foie gras terrine (16€), following Théophile's mother's recipe.

Before moving on to the main courses, a generous tartare of Salers beef (15€) and a sausage-purée (13€) with an absolutely demonic 8-hour simmer, we're happy to refresh our gullets with the finest cocktails, the Drôle d'Oiseau (egg white, apricot syrup, yellow lemon, fennel, tarragon-infused Charentais gin ; 12€) and Chauffe Marcel (Almond milk, peach juice, orgeat syrup, yellow lemon juice, Provençal aperitif of white wine and peach, Charentais vodka; 12€), delighted to note that these clever beverages are also offered at reasonable prices for the neighborhood. As for wine novices, they'll be delighted to discover the (ultra-educational) wine list.

As part of its commitment to quality and responsibility, Brasserie des Prés opts for seasonal, local, French and direct-from-the-farm produce, and for homemade recipes down to the smallest detail - mayonnaise, rillettes and, of course, each and every dessert.

As the menu says,"Foutus pour foutus", we move on to the sweet part, with a strawberry-pistachio tart (10€) and its shortcrust pastry buttered to perfection, and the tropezienne glacé (10€) whose ice cream comes from the house ice-cream parlour, the Glacier des Prés, adjacent to this brasserie, which is likely to quickly become a must-try in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Especially with the September 7 opening of its hidden bar on the second floor, christened Grouvie!

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.