Polka., chef Martin Boland’s highly promising first restaurant in République

A stone’s throw from République, Polka. comes into view. A restrained façade, a pared-back dining room dominated by an imposing concrete bar, and a warm welcome. At the helm, Martin Boland opens his first restaurant of his own here, after working at Caillebotte, alongside Franck Barranger and Alessandro Belmondo, among other places, and then taking charge of the kitchen at Oya.

The name of the establishment, Polka, is an affectionate nod to the chef-owner’s dog, a small personal touch that sets the tone for a place in her image: welcoming and unpretentious, and suggests a lunch as joyful as a Czech dance. 

To achieve this, the chef focuses on a short menu, refreshed every two weeks, featuring 3 starters, 4 main courses and 3 desserts. At lunchtime, a daily special also changes each day. While seasonal produce dictates the menu, a vegetarian option is always available as both a starter and a main course, prepared with as much care as the meat dishes. That gives some diners a choice, while inspiring others to explore greener horizons.

The lunch menus at €23 (starter/main course of the day or main course of the day/dessert) and €29 (starter/main course of the day/dessert) offer a chance to discover Maison at a reasonable price. In the evening, expect to pay €47 for the full menu.

On the plate, chef Martin Boland reveals his true flair for pairings and working with textures. The mushroom tartlet, onion cream, candied garlic condiment and shallot-and-coffee sauce (€15) celebrates the return of mushroom season with a deliciously deconstructed presentation in which every element has its place (condiment, sauce, chervil oil—nothing is left to chance, and a lot of work has gone into it!). 

The same delicate touch with the miso-marinated pollock, mushroom cream, brocoletti, verbena emulsion and damson plum (€16), a subtle dish.

The main courses are all about generous portions. The pulled lamb with Savora mustard and cashews, fennel coulis with turmeric, and roasted pears (€27) is particularly hearty and full-flavored, with bold flavors.

The pork tenderloin, served with roasted Padrón peppers, piccalilli relish, meat jus and beetroot cream (€25), bridges the seasons: the Padrón peppers still bring to mind summer, while the beetroot, with its earthy depth, suits the cold weather. The meat, served pink, is flawlessly tender, and special mention goes to the original piccalilli relish.

• To be read
• New restaurants in Paris, our best addresses
• Bistronomic restaurants in Paris, our best addresses
• Affordable bistronomic restaurants in Paris with a €30 lunch menu (starter/main course/dessert)

To finish, a simple pairing of financier and tonka bean ice cream, but a tremendously effective one. Polka.. makes a very successful debut!

Affordable bistronomic restaurants in Paris with a €30 lunch menu (starter/main course/dessert)
In Paris, there are many high-quality bistronomic restaurants offering lunch menus for €30 for a starter, main course, and dessert, or even less. Here are some good and inexpensive places to eat! [Read more]

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.