Rosario invites Spain to its table, and it's a hit.

Rosario, a name that travels well and a cuisine to match, as chef José Maria Goñi Martínez pays homage here to its Spanish origins.

Behind the address, the two co-founders Adrien Delrue et Théodore Ballu enlisted this rising figure on the Iberian scene to imagine a concise, bold menu, rooted in tradition yet decidedly contemporary.

With this new table, the Spanish chef who trained in the finest houses, notably alongside Martín Berasategui, the most starred chef in Spain, arrives in Paris for the first time with a desire to redefine Spanish culinary identity, to restore its full prestige and to shake up the established codes.

Already a Michelin-starred name thanks to his Madrid-based Restaurante Allard, chef José Maria Goñi Martínez aims to be a conduit for a generous, heartfelt Spanish cuisine... and it works!

In this sunlit corner restaurant with a carmine-red storefront, set to the beat of Spanish classics, the short menu also serves up a string of crowd-pleasers. Pan con tomate, Padrón peppers, cecina, Galicia mussels in escabeche, or a competition tortilla (€12), a proper way to start.

The four dishes, all on offer, evoke Spain with a modern edge: lentils with txistorra and Iberian pork; grilled hake with clams and fish broth; or the spectacularly caramelized pork cheeks in red wine (24€) with a silky, sauce-like mashed potato. Topped with cocoa, the plate reveals a striking epoxy-like marbling as it mingles with the meat jus.

Before dessert, a refined Basque cheesecake (9€), silky as crème caramel, a cocktail is in order: the ham Negroni (13€) with gin infused with jamón ibérico and a chiffonnade of jamón ibérico on top. Very original, just like the House’s other cocktails with ham-infused rum or tequila infused with Padrón peppers.

Otherwise, the house’s classic sangria (€35 per pitcher) and tinto de verano (€33 per pitcher) will also be snapped up.

• To be read
• Spanish restaurants in Paris, our top addresses for Iberian cuisine
• Where to eat paella in Paris? Our best addresses
• Paris restaurants and tapas bars, our top picks

When it comes to price, there’s no skimping: expect €23 for the lunch menu with a main course and dessert. An establishment far from the usual tapas bar, proving that the Spanish cuisine is far more diverse than it seems!

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.