Le Bistrot Micheline, the unusual gourmet restaurant in the old Sèvres train station - 92

Bistrot Micheline is the name of the Bistrots Pas Parisiens gourmet spot that awaits you in Sèvres, Hauts-de-Seine. You're probably familiar with Bistrots Pas Parisiens from its many addresses on the outskirts of the capital. Splash, Bistrot La haut, Saperlipopette, Macaille, Bistrot Podium, Sapristi, Bistrot des Chef, Papa Pool, Coco Rocco, Tata Yoyo and, most recently, Monsieur Claude, are just some of the spots that are already creating a buzz, thanks in particular to Stéphane Rotenberg, who is part of the adventure.

Bistrot Micheline is the name that entrepreneur Hakim Gaouaoui has given to this new place, in a nod to the old railcar and the Michelin guide, he tells the JDD.

The common thread running through these restaurants and gourmet spots is their meticulous decor, friendly welcome, great atmosphere and good food. As they so aptly put it:"Here, there's no fuss, no tralalas. We're simply looking for the truth of a moment of shared humanity; between the ripples of smoke from a dish that's been cooking for hours and the clink of wine glasses to signal the start of the festivities. Lovers of cuisine, the Bistrots are enlivened by the human warmth of the guests we welcome into our home: their home." It's all about eating well and feeling good, and we couldn't agree more.

The restaurant is located in the former Pont de Sèvres railway station, built for the Universal Exhibition in 1889. This historic station, formerly a railway station opposite the Musée National de Céramique, had been used exclusively for association meetings for several years, but has now been brought back to life.

Having fallen into disuse and been used only for meetings and seminars for several years, the restaurant has undergone a major renovation to mark its revival. The restaurant's decor is a tribute to the world of polo, immersing you in the elegant atmosphere of a private club. Vintage objects tell the story of the most prestigious polo competitions. From leather saddles with a patina of age, portraits of horses and dogs, to the shiny trophies on the shelves, the setting is set.

And to make sure you enjoy your meal here, Bistrots Pas Parisiens has called on Gilles Goujon, three-starred chef from Fontjoncouse, to create the menu for the group's new restaurant. The cuisine on offer smacks of tradition, in a bistro spirit, but revisited in an inventive and refined way.

Imagine authentic bourgeois cuisine, inspired by seasonal produce, for a genuine invitation to travel through time and tradition. The dishes on offer will be generous, gourmet and designed to be shared, encouraging conviviality around traditional recipes. From slow-cooked dishes to timeless pastries, the aim is to showcase French gastronomy, sublimated by the savoir-faire of an exceptional chef.

• To be read
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The menu, presented in table form and detailed by the waiters, changes every week. So you can come back every week without getting bored. Expect to pay €39 for starter + main course + dessert. During our visit, we discovered the excellent celery remoulade with pancetta toast and the famous herring with potato, preceded by a seasonal soup as an amuse-bouche.

As we've told you, Bistrot Micheline is all about sharing, which can sometimes be a little restrictive. In fact, you'll have to agree, because there's no single dish, so you'll have to choose a great dish to be enjoyed by at least two people. We chose between the Casserole de la mer with rouille sauce (a kind of Bouillabaisse setoise) or the Sauté de veau Marengo with rice pilaf, our final choice. Generous and candied, we had a great time with this stir-fry.

For dessert, we were able to choose between a generous Ile flottante and a regressive tarte tatin.

We love the charming setting and subdued atmosphere, ideal for lovers or groups of friends, but less so for families, who don't really have a menu to suit them - unless your children eat everything, of course. If you're looking for an unusual setting and comforting French cuisine, Sèvres is the place to go.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.