Remember, he was 5th during the 8th season of Top Chef France in 2017. This TV show made him even more want to open his own restaurant. For a few weeks, Cabane by chef Jean-François Bury has opened its doors in Nanterre. An establishment that is worth the trip, so you won’t be disappointed by going to western Hauts-de-Seine.
More than a simple restaurant, Cabane is a true place of life open starting form 9 a.m. for your morning coffee. Its lounge corner, with comfortable armchairs and sofas, welcomes patrons all day long (and there’s Wi-Fi) and especially in the evening, for a pre-dinner drink, with cocktails and a tapas menu. On Tuesday and Wednesday evenings, the restaurant does tapas only (charcuterie, cheese boards, marinated fishes, tapenade…) and mini-desserts (crème brûlée, rice pudding, cheesecake…). The lounge part is open onto a rather quiet street (rue du Docteur Foucault) and it’s very pleasing.
Jean-François Bury didn’t choose Nanterre by chance: living in the city, he noticed that in the prefecture town of the Hauts-de-Seine there were no restaurants dedicated to French gastronomy. Only pizzerias, kebabs, sushi restaurants…
At nighttime, the menu goes straight to the point with 5 starters, 5 main courses and 5 desserts evolving around the ingredients seasonality. French cooking for sure but twisted with Asian notes that remain from Jean-François Bury’s years at Shangri-La Paris.
One of the chef’s signature dishes is the pâté en croute, as a starter, a dish he presented in 2015 at the International Catering Cup, a championship he won.
In terms of décor, it’s the chef’s wife Anaïs Bury, a painter decorator who worked her magic. We feel good in this very woody atmosphere. Even though the restaurant is a bit noisy when full (it has 45 seats), wood is everywhere, and it feels warm. Le Bon Coin has supplied furniture. As a matter of fact, Jean-François Bury and his wife unearthed some armchairs and even the restroom door they improved themselves. On the wall, a tiny nod at Top Chef: a colander used as a wall light that Jean-François Bury already used in one of the legs of the TV contest.
The kitchen and especially the serving hatch are open onto the room. The scents going from the place whet the appetite. We see the chef finalizing all the dishes before sending them, because yes, Jean-François Bury is present in his restaurant.
On the table, checkered napkins and design glasses made out of a bottom cut from a bottle.
The meal starts with a very generous appetizer poetically called “légèreté d’aubergine et canard fumé” [Lightness of eggplant and smoked duck] to whet your appetite just right.
As a starter, we go for the famous pâté en croute with three poultries, sour primavera vegetables. Everything is homemade, even the dough. It’s perfectly cooked, and there is nothing else to say. We also enjoy the other chef’s signature dish, the marinated tuna and foie gras alliance with a vegetable wok, ginger and lemongrass broth. A delightful French-Asian surf and turf with pan-fried foie gras, tataki bonitos, vegetables and a lemongrass broth, the whole served with sesame. Ingredients are thoroughly selected and perfectly work together. Once again, the portion is very hearty.
A bit more poultry for the main course with the yellow poultry supreme, skin crumble, smoked mashed potatoes. This meat is very good with its seasoned juice and especially with the smoked mashed potatoes, a truly tasty addition. The crispy chips-like skin is a well idea too.
Let’s travel to Spain with the Iberian pluma and its pasta risotto with piri-piri like a paella. The pork is well cooked and tender, pastas are cooked with vegetables and chorizo, so that it brings a very “Pyrenean” taste.
If you still have room for a dessert, despite the good serving sizes during the meal, you should order the puff pastry like a Saint-Honoré with Tahiti vanilla you can eat easily, even if you’ve stuffed your face just before.
The restaurant also has a table d’hôtes you can privatize for groups, in a quiet corner, where guests can talk without being bothered and bothering anyone.
In terms of rates, at nighttime, starter start at €12, dishes at €23 and desserts at €10. The set menu with a starter, a main course and a dessert is displayed at €35. Cabane also has set menus at lunchtime with starter and main course or main course and dessert for €22 and starter, main course and dessert for €26 or even the main course with wine and a coffee for €21, two main courses and two desserts of your choice.
And we can tell you, in Nanterre, this Cabane is top, chef!
8 Rue du Dr Foucault
RER A Nanterre-Ville
01 47 25 22 51