Mabrouk: Jewish Tunisian cuisine comes to Paris 3rd arrondissement

Mabrouk is a small corner of Tunisia in the upper Marais. A bit as if someone cut a piece of the La Goulette neighborhood and put it there, at the corner of the rue Réaumur and the rue Saint-Martin, just across the Eglise du Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers, a stone’s throw from the Arts et Métiers metro station.

Even though coming from Paris, Alexis Memmi and Alexandre David, Mabrouk founders, met in the Tunisian village of Sousse where their grand mothers are neighbors. Both deeply attached to their roots and more than nostalgic about their grandmothers’ cooking, it’s very naturally that they’ve decided to open Mabrouk, this spruce embassy of Tunisian street-food with a Jewish-Arabic sauce.

As for the décor, Pierre-Alexis Guinet, creative director of the house didn’t fall in the cliché of the folkloric and excessively caricatural cliché. On the contrary, the south-facing terrace and the restaurant shelters have been painted with a lovely blue reminding us of Sidi Bou Saïd, a small Tunisian village also named “the small white and blue heaven”.

Mabrouk - La TerrasseMabrouk - La TerrasseMabrouk - La TerrasseMabrouk - La Terrasse

Also well-seen, the “zelligelight green tiled bar topped by zinc, the large sheared fabric bench seats, the Oriental hangings and the ceramic or terracotta pots filled with fresh mint and put here and there, on the folding tables that are ridiculously vintage (and wobbly!).

Mabrouk - Sur un coin de tableMabrouk - Sur un coin de tableMabrouk - Sur un coin de tableMabrouk - Sur un coin de table

All the codes of the Tunisian cafés have been respected and you don’t have to stay long at Mabrouk to feel like carried to the other side of the Mediterranean Sea. To make sure dishes are as exotic, the masters of the place have hired French-Israeli chef Daniel Renaudie that we discovered with the opening of the Else restaurant, and who trained in Jerusalem with famous Israeli chef Rafi Cohen before running the kitchen of Michelin starred restaurant “La Rive” in Amsterdam.

Mabrouk - Briques à l’œuf et au thonMabrouk - Briques à l’œuf et au thonMabrouk - Briques à l’œuf et au thonMabrouk - Briques à l’œuf et au thon

Mabrouk - La MéchouiaMabrouk - La MéchouiaMabrouk - La MéchouiaMabrouk - La Méchouia

Good draw with the tuna and egg ‘bricks’ (€8), the poached egg méchouia (€8) or the handmade and grilled merguez (€8) to enjoy, Kemia style over a fresh glass of anisette. Same luck with the main courses with the pkaïla (€20) this traditional beef and spinach stew that is often prepared for celebrations.

Mabrouk - La fameuse "pkaïla" aux épinardsMabrouk - La fameuse "pkaïla" aux épinardsMabrouk - La fameuse "pkaïla" aux épinardsMabrouk - La fameuse "pkaïla" aux épinards

Mabrouk - Couscous au poissonMabrouk - Couscous au poissonMabrouk - Couscous au poissonMabrouk - Couscous au poisson

Not bad either, the fish couscous with a perfectly cooked fillet but the couscous was sadly drowned in broth (but we’ve been told this if how it was eaten in Tunisia, so… alright!).

Mabrouk - Le "bambalouni", beignet traditionnel tunisienMabrouk - Le "bambalouni", beignet traditionnel tunisienMabrouk - Le "bambalouni", beignet traditionnel tunisienMabrouk - Le "bambalouni", beignet traditionnel tunisien

And of course, we can’t finish our meal without ordering a “bambalouni” these fried donuts – true icons of the Tunisian street-food – that are here served with a delicate orange marmalade. The house also serves a delicious brunch on Sundays (€35) with a kemia shaped like a buffet, a warm dish to order to the staff who is absolutely charming.

Manuel M.
Last updated on 17 June 2019

Practical information

Opening Time
From 17 June 2019 to 17 June 2020

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    Location

    64 Rue Réaumur
    75003 Paris 3

    Access
    M° Arts et Métiers

    Prices
    Brunch (le dimanche): 35 €
    Carte (env.): 35 €

    Official website
    www.facebook.com

    Booking
    www.google.com
    01 48 42 22 16

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