Perception, chef Sukwon Yong's delicate French-Korean cuisine

With great finesse and restrained delicacy, chef Sukwon Yong imagines a contemporary bistronomic cuisine at Perception that delights in the chef's origins, using dishes from the other side of the planet and flavors little known to Parisian palates.

Born in Seoul nearly 40 years ago, the Korean chef developed a passion for cooking at a very early age, but came up against the very elitist selection process in Korean culinary schools. He left for Los Angeles, where he attended the Cordon Bleu school, before flying to Australia and then arriving in France, where he enrolled at the Ferrandi school.

Under the benevolent wing of chef William Ledeuil, Sukwon Yong joined the ranks of Ze Kitchen Galerie, before moving to Maison Rostang in 2017 as chef de partie meats & sauces. He went on to become chef at Signature restaurant and then at Bistro Flaubert, always with the secret desire to open his own address in Paris.

With the help of restaurant manager Barnabé Lahaye, formerly of Maison Rostang where they met, Sukwon Yong opened his first restaurant, Perception, not far from Pigalle and its lively nightlife. The two have teamed up to unveil their vision of cuisine, one rooted in the French terroir but transported by small touches to Korea.

At Perception, there are no emblematic Korean dishes - don't expect to find bibimbap here - but a cuisine whose foundations are tricolored and which draws, here and there, on the Korean products, flavors and techniques that make up Chef Yong's soul. The duo has surrounded itself with a solid base of producers and artisans who ensure daily deliveries of well-bred produce, always in keeping with a virtuous, eco-responsible approach. The only deviation from this commitment is the coffee, which comes from South Korea, the work of Yondong, a star roaster from Jeju Island, voted best roaster in the world in 2020.

Right from the start, the tone is set, with soba and mackerel in a shellfish dashi broth - from his time with William Ledeuil, Sukwon Yong has retained his love of meticulous broths; and finely and delicately sliced sea bream sashimi, matched with a daring white mango tarama, green mango, marinated dashimas and topped with a black bean vinaigrette.

For the main courses, chef Sukwong Yong masters his French scales and allows himself a free-range poultry contisée with coriander and lemon balm butter, to deeply perfume the flesh, married with cauliflower - puréed, with broccolinis and magnified with a spicy Thai sauce. France and Korea pass the ball back and forth, alternating flavors from near and far.

Our hearts melt for the distinction of these kohlrabi berlingots, enclosing a leek confit with tom yam, subtly placed on a pearl broth with chive oil, alongside a yellow pollack just seared a la plancha; a harmonious marriage.

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For dessert, sugar is kept discreet, in the manner of French neo-desserts and in the purest tradition of Korean and Japanese desserts. A subtle dessert based around fresh kiwi fruit, with chamomile jelly, arlette and kiwi and lime sorbet. Chocolate and sesame oil tartelette with chocolate ice cream and nori seaweed will satisfy even the most chocolate-loving palates.

"Au pays des matins calmes, pas un bruit ne sourd" (In the land of quiet mornings, not a sound is heard), hummed Bashung, but at Perception, gastronomy gushes forth with ardor and clatter, sealing the elegant and sensitive union of France and Korea.