Omar Dhiab, virtuoso first Michelin-starred restaurant by chef Omar Dhiab

Chef Omar Dhiab, who has passed through some of the finest Michelin-starred restaurants, unveils his virtuoso, thrilling gastronomic cuisine at his first restaurant, to which he gives his name.

Omar Dhiab, former chef of the starred Loiseau Rive Gauche restaurant, has flown the nest and opened his own restaurant, a few blocks as the crow flies from the chic Place des Victoires. Having also worked in the kitchens of Le Train Bleu, Pavillon Ledoyen, Lasserre and L'Abeille at the Shangri-La, alongside chef Christophe Moret, this new gourmet restaurant may well see him back in the limelight sooner than he thinks.

An imposing marble and wood counter overlooking the kitchen, where effervescence is the order of the day, red lacquered walls at the front and a light patina in the cosy dining room, with alcoves inviting confidential discussions, charming deep khaki outfits for waiters and waitresses, the chef has left nothing to chance by entrusting the architectural firm Hauvette et Madani with the task; attention to detail and conviviality are the order of the day.

It's in these Art Deco-inspired surroundings thatOmar Dhiab defends a certain idea of gastronomy, one that's contemporary and plant-based, but that doesn't deny the cuisine of his childhood and his Egyptian roots. For as long as he can remember, cooking has been an integral part of Omar Dhiab's life, from the first aromas emanating from the broths of his father, himself a cook, to the fine cuts of meat, led by lamb and poultry, shared with family members on Sundays.

To bring this generous, gourmet cuisine to fruition, the young chef has surrounded himself with a first-rate team, not only behind the stoves but also behind the fine produce delivered to the restaurant every day. Putting his trust in the hands of some twenty hand-picked producers, Omar Dhiab picks his fruit and vegetables grown in the purest farming tradition in the Yvelines and the Var, the Bresse poultry is free-range, and the seafood, which plays a major part in his cooking, is fresh from the ocean.

Omar Dhiab unveils his superb cuisine with tasting menus for dinner (€98 in 5 courses, also available at lunchtime, €128 in 7 courses, €148 in 9 courses), and a starter/main course or main course/dessert menu (€39) and starter/main course/dessert menu (€58) for lunch. Greeted by a glass of karkade, a traditional Egyptian drink made from hibiscus, we throw ourselves wholeheartedly into what follows.

From theenchanting quartet of amuse-bouches (this pressed beef tongue lollipop!), a semolina cake with orange blossom as a plus-size mignardise, a veritable Proust's madeleine by Omar Dhiab served straight from the oven, not to mention a stunning croque ris de veau to be dipped sparingly in a Grenoble condiment that would wake the dead, everything rings true, and from the very first mouthful, provokes lively, frank emotions.

With incredible maturity and rare modesty, Omar Dhiab flouts all conventions, perfectly respecting his cooking and meticulously preparing his dishes, only to explode the contours of great gastronomic cuisine through unexpected pairings, condiments that bring a superior dimension to the plate, and sauces to die for.

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Crispy poultry bread, garlic-mustard
Vine leaf tempura, spicy chickpea condiment
Thin cuttlefish tartlet with pumpkin seed pistou
Beef tongue pressé lollipop