Choukran, couscous and Moroccan sandwiches by Abdel Alaoui

Neither his face nor his name are unfamiliar to you, that's for sure. Having worked in the kitchens of Michel Rostang in Paris and Pierre Gagnaire in London, Abdel Alaoui is best known to the general public for his role as a columnist on the TV show C A Vous, where he is still active today.

Founder of the Yemma canteens, the Moroccan chef is back with a new project, Choukran, a stone's throw from the Saint-Lazare train station. A new address designed by Studio Belem - currently working on the complete transformation of Tati Barbès - and Bureau Barbara.

Drawing inspiration from the narrow streets and riads of Morocco, Choukran reappropriates materials (zellige in various colors, white lime) and objects (tin cans, souk plates, mirrors; all mottled) through a pop, modern aesthetic. But it's also an energy that Choukran steals from traditional Moroccan restaurants: it's loud, it's laughter, it's up-to-the-minute dishes.

On the à la carte menu, Abdel Alaoui unveils the recipes that marked his childhood and that have been passed down through the generations of his family ever since, starting with the unmissable couscous, offered here in inclusive fashion. With its gluten-free semolina and 100% vegetable broth - tomato, turmeric, paprika, ginger, parsley, celery and coriander - it's accessible to vegan gourmets and those with intolerances.

Of course, you can also add chicken, keftas (€15.50) or merguez sausages, and spice things up with tfaya, a condiment of onions, raisins, orange blossom and cinnamon; or harissa and red onion pickles, which we'd prefer to be a little less watery.

Other house specialties include Moroccan chakchouka (€14.50), a far cry from the Tunisian chakchouka to which we're more accustomed in Paris - cooked ratatouille-style, it calls for peppers, zucchinis, tomatoes, chillies and eggplants simmered for a long time, but no soft-boiled eggs on top - and rofiyas, traditional cold semolina salads.

If the fingers pastillas with chicken, almonds and cinnamon (7.50€) were sorely lacking in filling and lightness, the beet hummus (6.50€) and above all its amazing airy batbout bread, served while still warm, are a delight. Abdel Alaoui's successful Kazdal sandwich is also on the menu, as is a new addition, the Bledwich, a sandwich that pays homage to the Chez Lamine restaurant in Marrakech.

Don't miss the chef's jasminade (9.5€ carafe, 4.5€ glass), made with jasmine tea, orange blossom, mint and lemon, to wash down your throat, before finishing with a slice of tiramisouk (6,50€), a Moroccan version of the Italian classic, where homemade amlou - an almond, argan oil and honey spread - is mixed with mascarpone and orange blossom replaces coffee.