The gastronomic history of Paris is punctuated by various fashions that come and go. This was the case with fusion restaurants in the 90s, mono-product addresses in the 2000s, and more recently, Italian restaurants that flourished in the four corners of the capital until recently.
Today, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern inspirations are undeniably in vogue, with Greek, Levantine and Israeli restaurants springing up like mushrooms in Paris. But not all are created equal, and it's not always easy to be sure of finding an authentic address that showcases authentic recipes from the Levant.
Just a stone's throw from Pigalle, the Adraba restaurant has just opened its doors under the impetus of a quartet of shock chefs. Eden, Elior, David and Shlomit have been friends since they met at the Balagan restaurant, and have joined forces to create their own address that will highlight their Israeli roots... but not only.
From Greece to Iran, via Turkey, Israel and Iraq, the influences are manifold, drawing here and there on the ancestral cooking techniques and traditional products of the different Levantine communities that make up the richness and diversity of this part of the globe. With David at the bar, Eden in the dining room and chef Elior Benaroche behind the stove as he was at Balagan, the small team knows what they're talking about.
In a decor of wood, lime and waxed concrete, with touches of olive and white earth,Adraba unveils its raw, devilishly creative cuisine. And it's far more exciting than most Mediterranean restaurants in Paris. Dishes are spicy, well-seasoned and, above all, original, with little resemblance to the dishes usually found on such menus.
Glorious bread con matboucha (4€) in the style of pan con tomate with an amazing tomato and bell pepper jam baked for ten hours; herbaceous tabbouleh (15€) with peach and pistachio; Esh bread (7€) with a smoky taste dipped in tatbila - an Israeli condiment that packs a punch; and to refresh the palate, a salad of watermelon (14€), bell bell pepper and tulum - a strong-tasting Turkish goat's cheese - accompanied by a Louisa cocktail (15€) with tequila, verbena, lemongrass and grapefruit soda.
The more adventurous will dare to try the chicken hearts (21€) cooked over a wood fire and slipped into a Turkish pita, while vegetarians will prefer the manti (22€), a dish of ravioli with eggplant, preserved lemon and kishk - a sun-dried yogurt stone from Jerusalem, with a lactic acid taste; original.
The desserts are equally pleasing, one with apricot, fennel and verbena (12€), the other with figs and Egyptian doa - a blend of spices, seeds and roasted dried fruit (11€). An address that gives a real boost and sincerity to the fashion for Levantine restaurants.
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.
Location
Adraba
40 Rue Véron
75018 Paris 18
Prices
Brunch: €36
Official website
www.adraba-paris.com
