Touring France without having to tow a caravan, pack a backpack or spend time on the train is a little dream within reach, without even leaving the 11th arrondissement. That's the promise made and kept by Picotte, a small, friendly restaurant just a stone's throw from Place de la République.
The itinerary begins as soon as you discover the evening menu, presented in the form of a fan that will bring back memories for regulars of Incollables, that little question-and-answer game that was such a hit in the 90s. Catherine Wade and Matthias Maboungou, who run the place, have added their childhood memories and other local specialities to this original menu.
For if there's one country that stands out for the variety, richness and diversity of its gastronomy, it's France. And if Catherine's Jura is all about hearty dishes , and Matthias' South gives pride of place to seafood, there are many other French regional specialities to discover. For that, head to Picotte for dinner!
While respecting the tradition that surrounds these recipes, Picotte knows how to rework them with modernity, under the aegis of Italian chef Marta Biagianti, who passed through a pair of transalpine palaces before crossing the border and joining the ranks of Il Vino, Epicure, Neige d'été and Pilgrim, all Michelin-starred.
At Chez Picotte, the white tablecloths and waiters in suits are a thing of the past, and the atmosphere is more relaxed, in the image of Parisian neighborhood bistros. But the chef doesn't forget what she's learned, choosing to work with each and every product from short supply chains, and placing particular emphasis on good sauces.
While the evening tasting menu (45€ starter/main course/dessert) evolves with the seasons and the regions, on our visit, we were able to savor amazing tripes à la mode de Caen (10€), with crispy beef belly and creamy Calvados espuma; as well as amazing mini pretzels on sticks (12€) to be happily dipped (to the last drop!) in an addictive cheese sauce.) in an addictive cheese sauce with brown beer, old mimolette and old mustard.
We then head for Provence, with a monkfish bourride and orange and saffron Sétoise sauce (27€) accompanied by vegetable tempura, before returning to Ile-de-France for rabbit with chasseur sauce (27€) and gnocchi gratin à la romaine, semolina gnocchi that are flatter and crisper than their Campania cousins. Two dishes that go perfectly with a small glass of organic or biodynamic French wine.
Dinner ends under the southern sun with chichis provençaux (12€), banana espuma and devilishly crunchy shortbread chickpeas, and then, even sunnier still, on the Martinique side, with a delicate little West Indian coconut flan (10€), creamy guava and coconut.
At lunchtime, mileage distances are shorter, with dishes more akin to today's bistronomy and less to local cuisine, but prices are also gentler, with a lunch menu at €22 starter/main course or main course/dessert and €26 starter/main course/dessert. Either way, for lunch or dinner, Picotte travels a fine road of French flavors.
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.
Location
Picotte
42 Rue de Malte
75011 Paris 11
Official website
www.picotte.fr
