Chez Mimi, the Not-Parisian bistro reinventing itself in Colombes

We pushed open the door of Chez Mimi, the bistro Pas Parisien tucked away in Colombes (92), in the Hauts-de-Seine, to see what this new look has become. After a name change, a full renovation and a redesigned menu, the place radiates fresh energy. Here’s what we saw on site: a charming brasserie d’antan that reinvents itself without denying its roots.

The decor immediately sets the mood. A zinc bar, mirrors, mouldings and a grand chandelier: we’re in an old brasserie from 1907, just a stone’s throw from the imposing church designed by architect Jean Hébrard. This chic, inviting setting—already highlighted by the Michelin Guide—establishes the tone for a neighborhood bistro that embraces its elegance.

The big news is the arrival of Oscar Gaouaoui at the helm of the venue. At just 19, he’s the son of Hakim Gaouaoui (founder of the group) and brother to Tara and Mona, taking up the family mantle with his own twist. His path is unconventional, shaped by stints across the group’s establishments, and his energy is unmistakable as soon as you step into the dining room.

Since arriving in September, Oscar has overhauled everything: renovations, a new menu, redesigned uniforms, and a reshuffled team. The concept stays true to the restaurant’s DNA—generosity, conviviality, and a love of sharing—but with a more contemporary edge and genuine sincerity.

As the parent brand, Les Bistrots Pas Parisiens has a remarkable story. Founded in 2010 by Hakim Gaouaoui and partnered with TV host Stéphane Rotenberg, the group now runs about fifteen venues that are shaking up the western part of Paris. Their calling card: making the cuisine of top chefs accessible, including some Michelin-starred names like Glenn Viel, Gilles Goujon, or Danny Khezzar.

On the plate, the menu pays homage to the classics of the contemporary French bistro. You’ll find the filet de bœuf with its pepper sauce, the daurade royale with parsnip, the famous coquillettes à la truffe, and a pistachio caramelized pecan mille-feuille. A generous kitchen, true to the vibe of the place. As for the options, expect €34.99 for the full menu (starter, main, and dessert), available at lunch and dinner, or €24.99 at lunch for two courses.

For a starter, we were tempted by the carpaccio Harry's Bar, ultra-thin slices of raw beef perked up with lemon, olive oil, parmesan shavings and arugula—a nice nod to the Venetian classic. Next to it, the burratina des Pouilles, creamy to perfection, is served with cherry tomatoes, homemade pesto and Taggiasca olives, and it won unanimous praise.

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To begin, the generous côte de veau (350g) roasted in butter, with its frites maison and pepper sauce, more than delivers. The seafood fans, meanwhile, will appreciate the saumon mi-cuit à la peau croustillante, resting on a light zucchini carpaccio.

For dessert, with our appetite a little waning, the fruit salad, attractively presented, and the pain perdu, generously portioned, brought the meal to a perfect close.

Our take? Chez Mimi ticks all the right boxes for a neighborhood bistro that’s stepping up its game without taking itself too seriously. We go there with family, as a couple, or with friends (reservations open for up to 15 covers), whether for a relaxed lunch or a friendly dinner, with a terrace that’s a welcome perk when the weather’s nice. A standout find in Colombes, to be found on the bistro’s official site.

If the No-Paris vibe appeals to you, we also recommend Le Chou de Chanorier, housed in Château Chanorier in Croissy-sur-Seine (78) with a menu by Charlie Anne, as well as Monsieur Claude, the treetop bistro perched 14 meters above the ground in Rueil-Malmaison (92) with a menu by Danny Khezzar. Beautiful places, great menus—we’re hooked.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.