Nearly 150 years ago, Emile Zola gave Les Halles its nickname of "thebelly of Paris", due to the abundance and richness of the foodstuffs you could buy there. No wonder, then, that this central district of the capital, where Victor Baltard 's Halles have since been replaced by the modernized canopy we know today, is brimming with fine restaurants andhistoric institutions.
Among these is the restaurant Benoit Paris, opened in 1912 by butcher Benoit Matray, which quickly became a favorite of the Parisian elite . In 2005, Alain Ducasse took over the Parisian institution and ushered in a new era, awarding it its first Michelin star , making Benoit the only true bistro in Paris to be starred by the famous red guide.
Inside, the place looks as if it hasn't changed since the restaurant opened, with its old-fashioned woodwork, red velvet banquettes, chiselled glass delineating the space, vast counter and period crockery. In an elegant, hushed atmosphere, the waiters bustle about in a carefully choreographed ballet, always offering good advice on the dishes or the fine wines that accompany them by the glass, pitcher or bottle.
On the à la carte menu, in keeping with bistro tradition, Benoit Paris unveils the greatest classics of French cuisine, brilliantly executed by Kelly Jolivet, behind the stoves since the start of 2022. The 28-year-old chef, who has worked at Louis XV-Alain Ducasse in Monaco and Ducasse sur Seine in Paris, honors the Parisian Maison's signature dishes, but also adds her own creative touch to the bistro's menu.
Benoit's legendary dishes include pâté en croûte, escargots en coquille and boudin aux pommes, which can be found in the three lunch formulas offered at €32 (starter/main course or main course/dessert) and €42 (starter/main course/dessert), as well as on the à la carte menu, embellished with festive designs dating back to the restaurant's beginnings.
For starters, the beef tartare (26€), carefully seasoned and spicy, is accompanied by pommes gaufrettes, while the fine wild mushroom tartlet (24€) brings us into the autumnal season, much to our delight.
We then opt for one of Benoit Paris's cult dishes, the organic tiger calf's head in ravigote (34€), a true marvel; before moving on to a dish full of reliefs and devilishly sapid, the gourmet sauté of sweetbreads, rooster crests and kidneys, foie gras, truffle jus (48€), which we sauce to the last drop and can't recommend highly enough if you're an offal lover.
Served very generously, the dishes prevent us from falling for the desserts, made, it should be noted, with ice creams, coffee and chocolate from Alain Ducasse's various factories. But that's just the tip of the iceberg, as we long for a taste of those profiteroles or Savarin à l'Armagnac.
Over 100 years ago, the slogan "Chez toi, Benoit, on boit, festoie, en rois" was coined; nothing has changed since!
Location
Benoit
20 Rue Saint-Martin
75004 Paris 4
Access
M° Châtelet
Official website
www.benoit-paris.com
