Akabeko, the Franco-Japanese setting of chef Yasuo Nanaumi in Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Published by Manon de Sortiraparis · Photos by Manon de Sortiraparis · Published on June 13th, 2023 at 02:30 p.m.
The new home of chef Yasuo Nanaumi in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Akabeko combines French and Japanese gastronomy with elegance.

The Saint-Germain-des-Prés district is becoming more and more Japanese, to the delight of lovers of flavors from elsewhere. Whether it's Blueberry Maki Bar, Steam Bar, Kaïto, Kodawari Ramen orO-Komé, Japanese gastronomy can be combined with all kinds of sweet and savory dishes in this corner of the Left Bank.

But at Akabeko, a new restaurant as chic as it is bistronomic on the rue de l'Université, Japanese cuisine blends with French tradition, for a graceful and gracious marriage just a stone's throw from the Jardin des Tuileries, with products that are as Japanese as they are tricolored.

Akabeko - Foie gras et betteraveAkabeko - Foie gras et betteraveAkabeko - Foie gras et betteraveAkabeko - Foie gras et betterave

Behind the stoves of this jewel box named in homage to a lucky red cow from Japanese folklore, chef Yasuo Nanaumi and his son Ken, whose cooking has been the rhythm of his life for over 50 years. Son of farmers, Yasuo Nanaumi left Japan for France, fascinated by its local products and gastronomy, and trained with the Troisgros and Lucas Carton. He then took over the Maison de l'Amérique Latine for ten years before opening Sept'N and Ao Izakaya.

Today atAkabeko, the chef returns to a cuisine cradled by his two loves, Japan and France, always driven by a passion and respect for the beautiful products of the sea and land in season. The journey is made through an Omakase menu in 3, 5 or 7 steps for lunch (respectively 59€, 79€, 129€) and in seven steps for dinner (129€).

Akabeko - Goujonnette de soleAkabeko - Goujonnette de soleAkabeko - Goujonnette de soleAkabeko - Goujonnette de sole

The menu includes graceful scallops wrapped in a soy and shiso tempura aumônière and spiced up with a yuzu kosho sauce and Sologne caviar; pan-fried foie gras from the Périgord region, served on vinegared sushime shi rice, seasoned with a teriyaki sauce and accompanied by tempura of beet, a coulis of the same vegetable and chervil; or a filet of Charolais beef cooked at a low temperature, accompanied by a red wine and eryngii mushroom sauce, melting potato mille-feuilles and peas.

Of course, the noble products of the sea are honored, as with this sole goujonnette cooked in a dashi broth and its sorrel-infused champagne sauce, which goes wonderfully well with a pak choy roll topped with a lacy tuile with turmeric yellow and an airy puff pastry with shimeji mushrooms; or this carpaccio of hamachi, the Japanese name for yellowtail, cut in the manner of sashimi and carried by 'tobiko' roe of flying fish marinated in wasabi, and various vegetables, chioggia beet and daikon in pickles.

Akabeko - Boeuf charolaisAkabeko - Boeuf charolaisAkabeko - Boeuf charolaisAkabeko - Boeuf charolais

The last note is more French than ever, disregarding the French-Japanese alliance, with an all-chocolate dessert, creamy coffee, chocolate and tonka bean quenelles, cocoa crumble, marshmallows and fresh fruit - we would have liked some Japanese markers to seal this brotherly marriage.

The attentive service, the jazzy soundtrack and the Franco-Japanese bias will certainly find takers in this chic corner of the Left Bank.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.

Practical information

Location

40 Rue de l'Université
75007 Paris 7

Prices
Déjeuner en 5 étapes: €79
Diner en 7 étapes: €129

Official website
akabekorestaurant.com

Booking
akabekorestaurant.com

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