Like an invitation to come home, chef Raphaël Rego 's restaurant OKA(house, in Brazilian) began its history in mini format: a pocket restaurant with just 16 covers in the 9th arrondissement, soon replaced by a larger establishment on the Left Bank, which quickly earned its first Michelin star.
But the Brazilian chef is definitely on the move, and has set himself the challenge of writing a new chapter for OKA, unveiling an ambitious project: to open two restaurants in the same location, each offering their own interpretation of Brazilian cuisine.
OKA - FOGO, Raphaël Rego's exotic new restaurant, is located in the 17th arrondissement . Having worked in some fine kitchens - L'Atelier Robuchon, Le Taillevent, Le Chalet des Îles, Hôtel Costes, Maison Blanche - the chef has teamed up with architect Arnaud Behzadi, who has added a unique soul to this multi-space venue, spread over two floors.
The 200m2 space houses not one, but two restaurants featuring the chef's native Brazil , as well as two private rooms - one with 8 covers in the basement wine cellar, the other with 6 covers in a small, intimate, shimmering space.
Heads, OKA, the gourmet , locavore restaurant that blends French cuisine with Brazilian flavours. Opposite, FOGO and its braise cuisine, which treats meat, fish, shellfish and vegetables in equal measure. And in the middle of these two spaces, the kitchen is open on both sides, all transparent, like a link between the two restaurants.
Another cornerstone of this new space is the wine cellar, which respects the winemakers, with no fewer than 500 references of French wines from all terroirs and Brazilian wines produced with absolute respect for the environment. For this is OKA FOGO 's guiding principle: sustainable cuisine that respects people and the earth. It's a noble decision, in line with the contemporary cuisine that the chef has embraced since his 5th arrondissement address, and which he pushes to extremes here.
Raphael Rego chooses to work hand-in-hand with his producer friends, who grow typically Brazilian herbs, vegetables and citrus fruits here in France, such as jambu and cresson de para from the Tarn-et-Garonne region. A virtuous short circuit also supported by a 7,000m2 kitchen garden in Seine-et-Marne, entirely dedicated to feeding the chef's two tables.
If Fogo is to be discovered at lunch and dinner, with dishes as hot as the embers (pão de queijo, ceviche, marbled beef picanha...) and fine meats straight from the maturing room before being parilla-grilled, Oka is to be savored at dinner only, with two tasting menus: the 5-course Parana menu (195€) and the 7-course Amazonia menu (245€). And what wonderful discoveries.
Oka is an exciting, fiery, generous and vibrant place to dine. A convivial address, supported by meticulous service and thehonorable creativity of Raphael Rego and pastry chef Alexandre Lauret - who has worked in the kitchens of Mauro Colagreco and Guy Martin. Take a look at the Amazonia menu as we visited. A stunning experience.
***
Bacalhau in puff pastry, caviar lemon, creamy hazelnut butter
Pig's trotter croquette
Creamy carrot and coconut rapadura tartlet
Chardstuffed with picanha and citrus tartare
Smoked eel, caviar and ribot milk
Diving scallops in moqueca, in the spirit of a coconut milk curry
Vegetable garden variation, beet oil
Parilla-grilled carabinero, pak choï, banana condiment, jus de tête
Small spelt risotto, blood sausage and citrus fruits
Matured Saint-Pierre, passion fruit, pilpil sauce
Wagyu sobrecostilla, bean purée, roasted beet lacquered with acai juice, acai purée
Dill sorbet, savory, lemon, ginger, lemon reduction
Mandarin-soaked baba, crispy tuile and mandarin juice
Apple and corn compression, vinegar caramel
Brazilian chocolate, chili, mucilage juice
Saint-Honoré and Brazil nuts
***
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.
Location
Restaurant OKA - FOGO
8 Rue Meissonier
75017 Paris 17
Official website
www.okaparis.fr
