In the family of materials and molecules(Aldehyde, Geosmine, Granite...), we ask for clay, and that's just as well, because it's the name of the new table of Romain Lamon, former chef-owner of Polissons, who is making his comeback with Argile, rue de Milan.
While his first address was infused with a bistronomic spirit , underpinned by his highly technical skills inherited from his stints at the Bristol (under Eric Fréchon) and the Ritz (Arnaud Faye and Michel Roth period), this new table focuses more on the sobriety of raw materials, without forgetting his past achievements.
In the setting, with its immaculate walls, terracotta sconces, waxed concrete and dining counter facing the kitchen. And on the plate too, with a simple, easy-to-understand cuisine that pays homage to the ingredients. Chef Romain Lamon's cuisine is "authentic and resolutely uncomplicated", and to achieve this, he works in collaboration with trusted producers, according to the seasons.
And finally, in price, with 'back-to-market' lunch menus offering unbeatable value for money: €22 for a starter/main course or main course/dessert; €26 for a full lunch menu. In the evening, à la carte dishes range from 9€ to 16€. It's simple, Argile has it all: the service is cheerful, the dishes are generously served and, above all, the lunch menu doesn't pale in comparison with the evening menu.
On our visit, we were served mimosa eggs topped with shredded bottarga, an incredible Dubarry-style cream of celery soup with crispy pieces of pork belly and equally crunchy golden croutons. Next came roast ham with mashed potatoes, then lean roast with sweet potato confit, before finishing with rice pudding and sorrel ice cream - which lacked a little presence - and millefeuille with pistachio praline and orange blossom ice cream.
It's deceptively simple but genuinely good, and has nothing to envy from addresses that offer the same thing for twice the price at lunchtime. The only thing that might bother some is the particularly noisy atmosphere at lunch - not necessarily the place to take a date if you're planning to listen to what he/she is whispering.
In the evening, the menu expands - at the moment, duck tataki, red beet and Muscat grapes; ravioli of mussels marinière and melting leeks; celeriac in the spirit of a Wellington; Grenoble skate wing meunière style; or whole pigeon cooked in a clay crust are all on the menu.
It's also possible to opt for the tasting menu (65€ in 5 courses) with carte blanche left to the chef - and given what he manages to come up with during the lunchtime coup de feu, we'd happily advise you to put your trust in him.
To top it all off, of course, Emma (La Liquiderie, Le Goncourt) has selected a selection of natural, live skittles.
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.
