Geoélia, the gourmet restaurant of talented chef Camille Saint M'leux

Talented Michelin-starred chef Camille Saint M'leux has chosen to open his first Paris restaurant, Geoélia, in place of Tang, the 16th arrondissement institution.

There's been a change at Tang! Mind you, we're not talking about Asian supermarkets with gleaming storefronts, but thisChinese institution in the 16th arrondissement. After 39 years in business, owner Charly Tang has decided to move on to something else - retirement!

Since Mr. Tang's departure, a breath of fresh air has swept through 125 rue de la Tour with the arrival of a renowned chef, awarded the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy 2023 prize and then a star for his work behind the stoves at Villa 9Trois in Montreuil: the talented Camille Saint M'leux.

The opportunity for the young chef to open his first Parisian restaurant under his own name, a far cry from his first love in Montreuil; a gastronomic restaurant with a poetic name - Geoélia - and a choice setting for this Breton chef's fine, creative cuisine. All the ingredients for an unexpected turnaround for the capital's legendary Chinese restaurant.

Geoélia, a name that evokes a sailboat, that of the chef's grandparents, Georges and Eliane, which plied the waters of Brittany. On board, Camille Saint-M'leux soon discovered the simple yet powerful flavors of the sea: langoustines, periwinkles, clams, just seared and enjoyed on deck. From then on, the taste of the ocean became the common thread running through her life.

Trained at Ferrandi, forged with Alain Solivérès at Taillevent, then François Daubinet and Michael Bartocetti, it was alongside Christian Le Squer at George V that he learned the basics of his gastronomic cuisine, which would be crowned with a star in 2024 at Villa9Trois.

Drawing on these experiences, the chef now unveils Geoélia, a nod to his childhood memories and love of the sea. Between raw concrete and mineral materials, silky drapes and noble materials, the address is as chic as it is minimalist. Camille Saint-M'leux conjures up theiodine of his childhood, the umami of his travels and the rigor of the great Houses he has frequented.

"This place is a part of me. This sailboat is where my first taste memories came to life. The simplicity of real things is what has shaped my cuisine. I'd like to open the doors to my world of memories and flavors," says Camille Saint M'Leux.

He continues: "Our cuisine is simple, precise and deeply alive, built around fresh, seasonal produce, in close collaboration with committed producers. By my side, a loyal team, united as a crew: Romain, Auguste and Amandine in the dining room, Lucas, Grégoire and Louis-Maxence in the kitchen. Together, we move forward with our hearts, guided by a taste for the right gesture and the joy of welcoming you."

This memorable, sensory voyage is offered through two tasting menus, one in 5 courses (125€), the other in 7 courses (160€), with the option ofwine and food pairings (65€ for 5 glasses). While some of the recipes tried out in the past at Villa9Trois ( Jersiais beef with charcoal, cuttlefish bacon and smoked herring roe) can be found here, the vast majority of Geoélia's menu is new.

Announced from the outset, the sea obviously plays a predominant role, as in the case of the whelk served in its swimming sauce, or the delicate yellow pollack with watercress (48€). But the chef also makes a number of highly successful returns to dry land, such as sucrine worked like meat, braised in lobster jus and served with a grand Veneur sauce - the sauce of game before the Eternal - or pigeon roasted on the trunk, smoked eggplant gnocchi and sorrel velouté (58€).

Camille Saint M'Leux may not have created the most modern restaurant of the year, but the chef has succeeded perfectly in doing what he was already doing at Villa9Trois: paying homage to French haute gastronomy, using top-quality produce, undeniable technical know-how and a genuine desire to draw diners into his world. Certainly his most intimate kitchen experience to date.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.