Villa9Trois, chef Sylvain Grosjean's star-studded getaway in Montreuil

Succession is more than assured at the now Michelin-starred Villa9Trois in Montreuil. Following the departure of Camille Saint-M'Leux, another young chef, Sylvain Grosjean, has taken over the reins with class and mastery.

The Parisian suburbs also boast some very fine addresses. On the heights of Montreuil, the Villa9Trois restaurant has been an institution for 30 years. In 2022, it was given a facelift with the arrival of Camille Saint-M'Leux.

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Christmas Eve menu 2025 at Villa9Trois
€168/person, €55 food and wine pairing

Canapé
*
Beechwood-smoked eel, star anise velouté
*
Lightly poached langoustines and oscietra caviar
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Scallops meunières, wild mushrooms, Arbois wine emulsion
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Roast guinea fowl, truffles and artichokes
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Glazed sage and pineapple compote
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Provençal log
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Petit fours

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New Year's Eve menu 2026 at Villa9Trois
€198/person, €85 wine pairing

Canapé
*
Beechwood-smoked eel, star anise velouté
*
Lightly poached langoustines and oscietra caviar
*
Poached foie gras, Sakura infusion
*
Scallops meunières, wild mushrooms, Arbois wine emulsion
*
Roasted guinea fowl, black truffle and artichoke
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Entract champenoise
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Vanilla variations
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Petit fours

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Trained by the very best, the young chef was awarded his first Michelin star the following year. Now on the road to new adventures, Camille Saint-M'Leux is handing over the reins to a new young chef: Sylvain Grosjean .

While Camille Saint-M'Leux had set himself the task of ushering Villa9Trois into a new era, transforming it from a Montreuil institution mired in'tratra' to a recognized, dusted-off gourmet restaurant, chef Sylvain Grosjean had the onerous task of preserving the hard-won macaron, while adding his own distinctive touch. A successful gamble!

In the past, the young chef has passed through some of the great Maisons - the 3* Villa Madie restaurant in Cassis, L'Ambroisie with chef Bernard Pacaud, then with his son Mathieu Pacaud at Apicius, where he became sous-chef.

Originally from the South of France, Sylvain Grosjean grew up culinarily between his paternal "pieds-noirs" origins, escorted by spices and seafood caught by his grandfather, and the other, more bourgeois branch of the family.

After an initial experience as head chef at the Domaine de Murtoli in Corsica, he has now moved to the heart of Villa9Trois, a magnificent establishment in Seine-Saint-Denis with a large, beautiful green terrace that comes alive in fine weather, its own vegetable and herb garden, a chicken coop and a citrus greenhouse, all of which serve as pantries for the restaurant's kitchens.

The young chef's mind is teeming with ideas. Making a clean sweep of the past, he unveils a gourmet French cuisine that's both heritage and rustic, noble yet steeped in strong Provençal and coastal influences. Available in 3-course lunch menus (55€), 4-course menus (89€), 7-course menus (119€) or à la carte.

On the à la carte starter menu, when we visited on a lovely spring day, green asparagus, tarragon, lemon and wild garlic tempura (€30); and morels, Arbois wine and peas (€34), which, despite having been steamed, are infinitely sapid, with a good buttery taste.

Then there's the devilishly lacquered sweetbread (64€), with artichoke barigoule, hearty jus and anchovy milk; turbot meunière with coriander ravigote sauce; or the beautiful grilled blue lobster (68€), rosemary-infused bisque, carrots and citrus. The desserts play on the simplicity of tastes appreciated by all (Williams pear, chestnut cream, orange blossom; 18€).

There's no doubt that you're sitting at the table of a great French restaurant as much as at that of a Provencal chef with a strong personality. The dishes are infinitely rich, perfectly balanced and generous.