Le 39V, gastronomy in the clouds by Frédéric Vardon

Perched in the clouds at Le 39V restaurant, chef Frédéric Vardon unveils his vision of French gastronomy, which puts the spotlight on nature and people.

Nestled on the 6th floor of a Haussmann building in the Triangle d'Or, Le 39V restaurant unveils a new face this autumn. With its airy, nautical decor, this haven of peace has been completely redesigned and redecorated by Raphaël Navot.

And to say the least, the designer has succeeded in highlighting the restaurant's beautiful arched volumes, whose roof, largely glazed, benefits from daylight and sunlight. The attractive terrace, which seats around ten and seems to be suspended at the top of the courtyard, like the hundred-year-old olive tree levitating in the air, invites you to relax as soon as the first days of spring arrive.

In the kitchen, the orchestra is led by chef Frédéric Vardon, whose cuisine is respectful of nature and of producers, breeders, market gardeners and winegrowers - all of whom are mentioned on the menu. This very personal vision can be discovered at lunchtime in a €49.5 menu, but also in two tasting menus, in 4 courses (€95) and in 6 courses (€145).

On the menu are the finest French dishes, subtly celebrated by chef Vardon and his teams, such as scallops from the Baie de Seine (36€) so finely sliced they melt in your mouth, or langoustines from our coasts (42€) served with remoulade; two starters that completely sweep you off your feet.

Next up, one of our favorite dishes that's so hard to resist when you see it on a restaurant menu: sweetbreads (64€), served here medium-rare and accompanied by a surprising Arcachon condiment - made from oysters, as you may have guessed - and a polenta as creamy as it is comforting. In season, we also love duck with carrot purée, seasonal vegetables and reduced meat juice.

To start things off on a sweet note, we take a look at the dessert menu, made with as little added sugar as possible. Enjoy the roasted pear (€24) with its black rice praline, and the lemon dessert of the day, served in a retro-style dessert bowl.

For an exotic cocktail or a glass of biodynamic wine, comfortably seated at the bar; for an evening in fine weather, on the terrace overlooking the Eiffel Tower, or simply to discover chef Frédéric Vardon' s vision of French gastronomy revisited and corrected, the 39V has established itself as a benchmark venue in the 8th arrondissement.

Please note that it's been over 4 years since our last visit, so the place and experience may have changed.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.