After Tsukizi, Shin Izakaya and Saku, the Kobo group unveils its fourth location, Nonno San, in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. While some unions seem obvious, it must be said that an Italian-Japanese marriage isn’t the first pairing that comes to mind. On one side, a generational cuisine brimming with generosity; on the other, minimalist gastronomy where every gesture counts. Fair enough?
Behind this new restaurant, Keita Sukeno and Victoria Luciano have drawn on their respective family histories. The restaurant’s name alone sums up this dual identity: “Nonno,” meaning grandfather in Italian, pays tribute to Victoria’s Calabrian ancestors, while “San,” an honorific suffix used in Japan, evokes respect for elders and the passing down of traditions.
The result is a winning combination, served up in generous portions, though we would have liked the fusion to venture a little further at times. While the Maison aims to bring Italian cuisine and Japanese craftsmanship into conversation, rather than simply combining specialties, some Japanese influences are sometimes confined to a single ingredient in classic Italian recipes.
That’s the case with dashi in the seafood spaghetti and polenta, miso paired with ’nduja, and kombu in a sauce... All promising avenues that make us eager to see Nonno San push the boundaries further and try even bolder combinations!
To start, the antipasti showcase quality ingredients to share (guanciale, coppa) alongside more elaborate dishes, such as the melt-in-the-mouth, juicy beef and veal polpette (€15 for three) and the equally successful ’nduja arancini (€11 for two). But to truly travel from one country to another, it’s the Itameshi section you’ll want to explore.
This is where to tuck into the gnocchi with aonori seaweed and trout roe (€18), served with a creamy kombu sauce—a delightful play of textures, with tiny briny pearls that burst on the tongue—and the spaghetti with mentaiko (€18), made with spicy cod roe, cream and nori: pure comfort food. Generous portions, both dishes are a real delight.
As for the cocktails, the delicate, fragrant Yuzu Spritz (€16) pairs beautifully with the meal, while the much more bitter Shiso Gin Tonic (€14) is for those who prefer bolder flavors. Nonno San is nonetheless a charming spot where Italy and Japan come together with precision. And while the most fusion-driven dishes are also the most enticing, above all they make you want to come back and discover just how far this Italian-Japanese duo can take us!
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.
Location
Grandpa San
20 Rue Dauphine
75006 Paris 6
Route planner
Official website
kobofamily.com
