Mavrommatis: the Michelin-starred Greek restaurant got a makeover

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Published by Julie de Sortiraparis · Photos by Manon de Sortiraparis · Published on November 12th, 2019 at 05:22 p.m.
Created in 1993 by the Mavrommatis brothers, the gourmet restaurant named after them was awarded the supreme consecration in 2018 with their first Michelin star, before closing for a while for an in-depth renovation. We went and discovered this new décor, tried the menu of the only Greek Michelin-starred restaurant in the world, outside Greece.

Flower of Mavrommatis brothers’ group, their eponymous gourmet restaurant created in 1993 has been making Greek flavor and product fans happy for long years. A perseverance that the Guide Michelin had to award a star in the edition 2018 of the famous red guide.

And in order to convert an already successful try, they’ve decided to close their restaurant for a while and offer is a setting at the level of its quality gastronomy.

Mavrommatis Daubenton - La salleMavrommatis Daubenton - La salleMavrommatis Daubenton - La salleMavrommatis Daubenton - La salle

A house entirely redecorated

Skillfully mixing Greek tradition and “Parisian chic”, the new setting of Mavrommatis has been  designed in a sculptural vaulted space with arches and niches that seemed to have been sculpted in a mountain from Santorini, with round volutes and alabaster walls reminding us of the whitewashed Greek houses.

Mavrommatis Daubenton - La salleMavrommatis Daubenton - La salleMavrommatis Daubenton - La salleMavrommatis Daubenton - La salle

All materials used are spotless as if they have been “washed” by the Aegean Sea and brushed with salt and sun. The floor is made of large and clear marble. The spotless walls are adorned here and there with carved or patterned or even perforated walnut tree letting you see the kitchen where the team is hard at work.

Mavrommatis Daubenton - La salleMavrommatis Daubenton - La salleMavrommatis Daubenton - La salleMavrommatis Daubenton - La salle

An impressive staircase shows the way to the upper floor where private lounges – Costa Gavras and Georges Moustaki – as well as the bar welcome guests looking for some privacy.

On the welcome plates, laid upside down on the table, we discover the emblem of Mavrommatis that has been designed by Georges Moustaki himself who has been a loyal regular until his death.

Mavrommatis Daubenton - Assiette dédicacée par Georges MoustakiMavrommatis Daubenton - Assiette dédicacée par Georges MoustakiMavrommatis Daubenton - Assiette dédicacée par Georges MoustakiMavrommatis Daubenton - Assiette dédicacée par Georges Moustaki

The discreet and soft service – conducted by the room manager Sébastien Carlier – comes and complete this postcard that truly makes us feel like we’ve been teleported to the Cyclades, at the table of a very chic restaurant by the sea.

A Greek restaurant, really?

If at the debuts of the restaurant Andréas Mavrommatis – running the helm as usual – initially offered his guests to discover the gastronomy of his country in a modernized and polished fashion, we have to say that you can no longer speak about Greek food as the house culinary project dramatically changed and evolved over the years.

Because today, it’s more about a menu providing creative food cooked with the best products from the Greek territory but prepared with the sharpest techniques of the high French gastronomy.

An auteur-cuisine for sure that gives pride of place to beautiful ingredients from Greece and its surroundings, provided in a menu where everything sounds delicious such as the grilled squid with phyllo pastry, grilled romaine salad and crispy sea lettuce (€27), Zaatar-grilled bluefin tuna, seasonal vegetables, smoked bottarga from Messolonghi and cardamom-flavored green juice (€41), roasted Vendée pigeon supreme, eggplant cannelloni duo, spicy tomato condiment and Kalamata olive jus (€42) or Tatin apple, caramelized phyllo pastry, light spice cream and walnut ice cream (€14).

But if you want to discover Andreas Mavrommatis’ talent and creativeness, do like we did and choose one of the tasting menus of the house such as the five-course and €85 Menu Découverte or the seven-course and €115 Menu Signature.

The night we came for dinner, the gourmands we are couldn’t resists the Menu Signature, a true dance (or sirtaki, perhaps?) of flavors that permeates the dishes in a twirl of delicate and colorful tastes that we’ll give you the details of at the end of this article.

Mavrommatis Daubenton - Mise en boucheMavrommatis Daubenton - Mise en boucheMavrommatis Daubenton - Mise en boucheMavrommatis Daubenton - Mise en bouche

Discovering Greek wines

To accompany this beautiful cuisine, instead of choosing a bottle that will struggle to pair every dish on the menu, and trust the lovely sommelier born in South America who will recommend Greek wines served by the glass and perfectly pairing your dish. The party will just be more beautiful!

Detail of our dinner at Mavrommatis:

Signature menu for €115
Served to the entire table

Appetizer
Confit salsifies and soft sunchoke and Mastiha soup
***
Scallops from Port-en-Bessin
Carpaccio, spice-marinated cockles and smoked bottarga from Messolonghi
***
Wild mushrooms
oeuf parfait, grilled halloumi, mushroom and cilantro broth
***
Candied eggplant
with wild thyme, raw and cooked vegetables, Obsiblue shrimp, lardo di Colonnata
***
Wild turbot
Plain organic lentils from champagne, red root, tahini dressing with crustacean juice
***
Suckling lamb from Lozère
candied shoulder, halloumi-roasted saddle, chard dolmades, Volos olives condiment
***
Pineapple and fennel
Roasted with honey from Crete and vanilla, mango sorbet with Espelette chili pepper and lime
***
Chocolate-olive and basil
Taïnori ganache with olives and basil, orange blossom ice cream

 

Mavrommatis Daubenton - Champignons des bois, œuf parfait, halloumi grillé, bouillon de champignons à la coriandreMavrommatis Daubenton - Champignons des bois, œuf parfait, halloumi grillé, bouillon de champignons à la coriandreMavrommatis Daubenton - Champignons des bois, œuf parfait, halloumi grillé, bouillon de champignons à la coriandreMavrommatis Daubenton - Champignons des bois, œuf parfait, halloumi grillé, bouillon de champignons à la coriandre

Mavrommatis Daubenton - Saint-Jacques de Port-en-Bessin en carpaccio, coques marinées aux épices, et boutargue fumée de MessolonghiMavrommatis Daubenton - Saint-Jacques de Port-en-Bessin en carpaccio, coques marinées aux épices, et boutargue fumée de MessolonghiMavrommatis Daubenton - Saint-Jacques de Port-en-Bessin en carpaccio, coques marinées aux épices, et boutargue fumée de MessolonghiMavrommatis Daubenton - Saint-Jacques de Port-en-Bessin en carpaccio, coques marinées aux épices, et boutargue fumée de Messolonghi

Mavrommatis Daubenton - Turbot sauvage, lentilles bio de Champagne au naturel, pourpier, sauce tahini aux sucs de crustacésMavrommatis Daubenton - Turbot sauvage, lentilles bio de Champagne au naturel, pourpier, sauce tahini aux sucs de crustacésMavrommatis Daubenton - Turbot sauvage, lentilles bio de Champagne au naturel, pourpier, sauce tahini aux sucs de crustacésMavrommatis Daubenton - Turbot sauvage, lentilles bio de Champagne au naturel, pourpier, sauce tahini aux sucs de crustacés

Mavrommatis Daubenton - Agneau de lait de Lozère, épaule confite, selle rôtie au halloumi, dolmadès de blette, condiment aux olives de VolosMavrommatis Daubenton - Agneau de lait de Lozère, épaule confite, selle rôtie au halloumi, dolmadès de blette, condiment aux olives de VolosMavrommatis Daubenton - Agneau de lait de Lozère, épaule confite, selle rôtie au halloumi, dolmadès de blette, condiment aux olives de VolosMavrommatis Daubenton - Agneau de lait de Lozère, épaule confite, selle rôtie au halloumi, dolmadès de blette, condiment aux olives de Volos

 

Practical information

Dates and Opening Time
Starts November 8th, 2019

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    Location

    42 Rue Daubenton
    75005 Paris 5

    Access
    Metro: Censier-Daubenton or Place Monge

    Prices
    Menu Déjeuner: €45
    Carte (env.): €80
    Menu découverte (5 assiettes): €85
    Menu Signature (7 assiettes): €115

    Official website
    www.mavrommatis.com

    Booking
    bookings.zenchef.com
    01 43 31 17 17

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