Mistinguett, the Casino de Paris restaurant and its breathtaking Années Folles decor

Published by Manon de Sortiraparis · Photos by Manon de Sortiraparis · Published on June 8th, 2023 at 10:10 p.m.
Nestled on the second floor of the Casino de Paris, the bistronomic Minstinguett restaurant with its Années Folles decor is breathtakingly beautiful.

There are some breathtakingly beautiful Parisian restaurants, and Mistinguett is certainly one of them. Discreetly tucked away on the second floor of the Casino de Paris, the temple of music-hall and Parisian nightlife for over 140 years, the restaurant, named in tribute to the historic showgirl from the turn of the last century, boasts an absolutely remarkable Années Folles decor.

Le Perroquet is no more, long live Mistinguett! From the chic brasserie of yesteryear, the restaurant has retained its white-tablecloth tables, its well-dressed regulars and its taste for the glamorous. To recreate theAnnées Folles ambience of the previous establishment and get as close to the truth as possible, architectural duo Hugo Vince and Adèle Nourry of Atelier Ha delved into the black-and-white archives of the 1920s.

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From the muffled leopard-print carpeted floor to the undulating gilded ceiling by visual artist Matthias Kiss, from the subdued alcoves to the red banquettes, every detail has been carefully thought out. What can we say about the two sumptuous Murano glass feathered chandeliers, or the colorful work by Caroline Derveaux and Margaux Dehry in the toilets (go for it!), a sort of Nikidesaintphallesque Nana.

The centerpiece of the restaurant, the stained-glass window, listed as a Monument Historique, can be admired in minute detail while seated at the bar with a cocktail in hand. From the great classics to unique creations named after the most famous showgirls who enlivened the Parisian stages of the 20th century, these skilful beverages are prepared from homemade syrups, infusions and juices - like the Zizi Jeanmaire (rosemary-infused gin, pear syrup, Williams pear brandy, lemon juice, Prosecco; €14) or the Joséphine Baker (rum, chestnut cream, espresso, chocolate bitter, cocoa powder; €14).

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The menu of this haven of good taste features the great classics of French cuisine by chef Etienne Daviau, who trained with the greats - Alain Senderens, Eric Fréchon at Le Bristol - but with a contemporary twist. At lunchtime, the choice is between 3 starters, 5 main courses and 3 desserts; in the evening, an additional dessert and starter, to be discovered at the 8pm and 10:30pm service.

On the evening of our visit : an oeuf parfait (16€), pea mousse, haddock, trout roe and golden croutons; a maquereau à la flamme (15€) half-cooked teriyaki style, wasabi cream, beet and green oil; quasi de veau en croûte panko-amandes (29€), févettes, pommes grenailles, sariette and wild garlic pesto; and filet de Saint-Pierre meunière (35€), tagliatelle d'asperges vertes, mousserons au beurre savagnin and fregola sarda.

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While we wait for the desserts - strawberries with a light crème montée, pistachios and Breton shortbread (12€); chocolate and almond-hazelnut praline entremets (13€), classic but masterful - we let ourselves be amazed by the conjurer's magic tricks, a glass of natural wine in hand. And to be honest, we still haven't figured it all out (!).

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please mention it in the comments.

Practical information

Location

16 Rue de Clichy
75009 Paris 9

Official website
mistinguett.paris

Booking
mistinguett.paris

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