Restaurant Maison Blanche, the gourmet address in Blanc-Mesnil (93)

After the Michelin-starred Villa9Trois restaurant in Montreuil, a second gourmet address from the same group awaits us in Seine-Saint-Denis. We take you to Maison Blanche, the gourmet restaurant located in Blanc-Mesnil.

The M2B Gastronomie group, already behind the now Michelin-starred Villa9Trois in Montreuil, is continuing its conquest of the Seine-Saint-Denis region with the opening of a second restaurant in the 93, this time in Blanc-Mesnil. Named Maison Blanche, this restaurant on the outskirts of Paris promises to be as tasty as it is soothing.

Located in a restored farmhouse nestled in the Anne de Kiev park between the golf course and vineyards, the restaurant has managed to bring out the charm of the old, while adding a touch of modernity and worldliness: the beams are exposed, as is the roof structure, the stonework is original, and the first floor is comfortable, with wooden furniture, velvet armchairs, carpets on the floor, a cosy fireplace (lit in winter) and a piano.

On the second floor, on the mezzanine, sofas and upholstered seats welcome the curious on the road to exceptional spirits. The cellar offers a wide range of wines, as well as a selection of Japanese whiskies, artisanal arranged rums and rare cognacs. In summer, the green terrace invites you to indulge in the pleasures of the moment.

In the kitchen, M2B Gastronomie has placed chef Mickaël Poyault, who has worked at Fauchon, the Intercontinental, the Mandarin Oriental and Garance, where he became sous-chef. At Maison Blanche, his cuisine is inspired by nature and the seasons, between land and sea (less recommended for vegetarians or vegans). In detail, expect to pay €44 for the Mesnil starter/main course/dessert menu, served at lunchtime (except Sundays), and €69 for the 5-act Blanc menu.

It's this latter formula that we decided to discover in the charming cocoon that is the Maison Blanche. Naturally, the restaurant takes care to adapt its menu to the dietary requirements of its guests. The result is a warm and inviting setting that makes you feel right at home.

Our experience begins in style, with appetizers that set the tone: an apple dauphine-inspired canapé with a squash condiment, and a tartlet topped with red cabbage pickles and a surprising mussel condiment. As part of its locavore approach, the restaurant serves bread from Le Fournil à Montreuil, also in Seine-Saint-Denis, known for its use of natural sourdough.

It's easy to see that in the kitchens of Maison Blanche, you can expect to savor gastronomy through the prism of comfort. And this is confirmed by the rest of this escapade. After refreshing and awakening our taste buds with a Tzatiki topped with cucumber gazpacho, we're treated to a starter between land and sea. Presented as a culinary bouquet, we find a meaty artichoke and prawn combo, accompanied by carrots and resting on a creamy red curry? Pieces of foie gras are sprinkled here and there, adding a surprising match that respects the different products without distorting them.

This emphasis on nature's best is also a common thread that runs throughout the meal. So don't expect anything unstructured: while Maison Blanche is not lacking in technique, its dishes have that hint of simplicity (apparent only) that allows you to keep your bearings and let the quality of the ingredients express themselves without masquerade. This means being prepared to let yourself be carried away with your eyes closed, and to let go of your preconceptions about certain ingredients.

This is evidenced by the red line tuna, just snacked, with its red onion and beet condiment, and its grilled lettuce cream. The layout allows us to personalize our tasting, allowing us to taste each element in isolation, giving us the choice of noticing the freshness of the fish. The plate is accompanied by peas and rhubarb to balance it all out.

After the sea, it's time for the land. Here comes our favorite, with its painting-like presentation: veal, timidly hidden beneath a waltz of chard and green asparagus, is paired with an astonishing foamy haddock milk. Yes, the call of the sea isn't far away, and this marriage enhances the meat while adding a certain creaminess.

When it's time for sweet treats, the address takes on a slightly more experiential dimension to round off this gourmet escapade. As a pre-dessert, Maison Blanche cleverly revisits the trou normand with a rather pronounced cinnamon ice cream, bathed in an apple condiment and sprayed with a few drops of rhum arrangé.

The final touch is apricot, a range of flavors that can be mixed and matched as desired, like a gourmet palette that gives us carte blanche. In turn, an apricot covered with melon balls, orgeat milk, melon eucalyptus ice cream, burrata and port jelly are lined up on the plate, and we appreciate this light, playful plate that won't leave us hungry.

All in all, Maison Blanche is a good address offering good value for money for a gastronomic experience. The restaurant also offers an affordable food and wine pairing supplement (€25 for three pairings), although there are no alcohol-free pairings for those who don't drink or plan to drive. The location is well worth the detour, and may even inspire you to enjoy a day of golf and dining. Enough to make us want to push on to Blanc-Mesnil!

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