Cêna, an upscale restaurant just moments from Parc Monceau

Published by Manon de Sortiraparis · Photos by Manon de Sortiraparis · Updated on April 14, 2023 at 05:45 p.m.
A true table d'auteur, Cèna is David Lanher's intimate setting, as the crow flies from Parc Monceau. Chef Hideki Nakamura's menu is both moving and stirring.

After already impressing with Racines, a restaurant that has earned glowing reviews over the years, and the Bon Saint Pourçain, which we’ve praised ourselves extensively, David Lanher opened a new spot in 2021. Located just steps from Parc Monceau and along Boulevard Haussmann, it’s called Cèna.

Since May 2025, the restaurant has been taken over by new owners, leading to a complete overhaul of both the team and the culinary direction. The arrival of Chef Lana Solé has brought a fresh perspective to the kitchen. With this change, Céna is embarking on a new chapter, featuring an revamped menu and a renewed culinary philosophy.

With a name as lofty as a Greek tragedy, David Lanher weaves a story that’s anything but a joke. It’s about a hidden haven, brought to life by the Magalie Varcourt studio. The space is split in two by a long, surprising central island, with a large mirror on the back wall that amplifies the sense of space and is filled with natural daylight.

Cèna - Moules et pain grilléCèna - Moules et pain grilléCèna - Moules et pain grilléCèna - Moules et pain grillé

At the helm of this upscale restaurant, which boasts a beautiful, long terrace perfect for sunbathing on warm days, David Lanher has chosen a youthful, fresh approach with a top team all under thirty: Matthieu Morvant in the dining room, who previously worked at the Plaza Athénée, Substance, the Flaubert bistro, and Racines des Prés; supported by Lucas Hubert in wine selection, offering a menu that balances timeless classics with natural wines.

In the kitchen, Hideki Nakamura, a quietly influential figure among Japan's newer culinary talents, leads his team with wisdom and restraint. Former head chef at the renowned La Table du 53, this Japanese chef creates a menu that is personal, seasonal, and generous, showcasing a collection of true culinary treasures.

Cèna - Truite et endivesCèna - Truite et endivesCèna - Truite et endivesCèna - Truite et endives

On the menu, three introductory courses, three starters to set the tone, two briny notes echoing the richness of the main ingredients, a medley of cheeses, and two sweet finales; available à la carte or as a guided tasting menu that reflects the chef’s mood — 75€ for a four-course experience featuring starter, fish, meat, and dessert at lunchtime.

It's hard not to be captivated by the opening bites that keep coming back — sardines topped with caramelized onions, fresh fromage blanc served with buttery toasted country bread (10€); mussels accompanied by herbed mayonnaise and the same rustic bread (8€). These small delights offer a comforting and refined taste of Parisian charm, perfect for those seeking both solace and sophistication. 

Cèna - Pintade et asperges blanchesCèna - Pintade et asperges blanchesCèna - Pintade et asperges blanchesCèna - Pintade et asperges blanches

The Poivrade artichokes in tempura, young onions, fèves, and shellfish (18€) hold up very well, as does the trout served with endives, trout roe, and a kumquat-grapefruit vinaigrette (20€). However, the green asparagus in tempura with herb mayonnaise and lovage cream (24€) appears to be a bit lonely at the center of its plate.

But the two hearty meat dishes erase all doubts, starting with the guinea fowl (€40), which showcases tender thigh and breast, accompanied by white asparagus, morels, and smoked egg yolk—condiments in their own right—creating a true master’s dish; and then the tender veal chop paired with sweetbreads (€42), served alongside comforting shoulder croquettes. Moving and heartfelt, Chef Hideki Nakamura delivers cuisine that truly nourishes the soul.

Cèna - Dessert chocolat tonkaCèna - Dessert chocolat tonkaCèna - Dessert chocolat tonkaCèna - Dessert chocolat tonka

To end on a sweet note, the new pastry chef introduces a dessert centered around chocolate and tonka bean (14€), featuring a variety of textures — a crispy tuile, a rich ganache, a crunchy streusel, and a scoop of ice cream — all supported by a bold, whiskey-infused crème anglaise. There's also a nostalgic nod to the previous pastry chef's repertoire with a less memorable poached rhubarb dessert (13€), which combines siphon-whipped rhubarb, almond sponge cake, and a tangy rhubarb and elderflower marmalade.

An authentic chef's table experience, bringing a touch of elegance to the 8th arrondissement.

Please note that it's been over 4 years since our last visit, so the place and experience may have changed.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.

Practical information

Location

23 Rue Treilhard
75008 Paris 8

Route planner

Accessibility info

Official website
www.cena.restaurant

Booking
www.cena.restaurant

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