Chardonnay, the roguish little brother of the Crus de Bourgogne

In 2020, the Dumant family took over the Aux Crus de Bourgogne institution, a landmark for André Malraux in his day and for all lovers of fine French cuisine today, giving it a new lease of life while preserving its authentic decor, the key to its charm.

Today, Margot and Felix Dumant unveil Le Chardonnay, the little brother of Les Crus de Bourgogne, which opened just next door, still on that quiet little street in the Montorgueil district . Less bourgeois and adorned with tradition than its big sister, where waiters parade around in suits, this new offspring nevertheless remains in the right vein of the Parisian bistro where you can rediscover the great mastroquian classics that have become so popular in recent years.

• To be read
• Traditional bouillons, brasseries and bistros in Paris, our tips and good addresses
• French restaurants in Paris, traditional or modern, our best addresses
• This week's best bets in Paris and Île-de-France, May 18–24, 2026.

At the counter or table of this bustling troquet, from midday to midnight without interruption, you'll find divine cochonailles, led by rillettes (6€), brioche sausage (8€), tartine de pied de cochon au raifort (11€) and terrine maison (9€); as well as dishes that have made the reputation of French terroirs , such as oeufs en meurette (carefully prepared; 12€) and bœuf bourguignon (almost braised; 20€) for a trip to Burgundy; quenelle de brochet sauce Nantua (generous; 16€), a delicacy from Auvergne; or galantine de poulet à la crème et morilles (comforting; 23€).

Generous, good-natured, affordable cuisine in a noisy, lively troquet atmosphere: once again, the Dumant family has taken up the challenge with Le Chardonnay, an address that ticks all the boxes you'd expect from a Parisian bistro.

And that's not counting the beverages, which you can choose from some sixty biodynamic and environmentally-friendly products. You can toast to your heart's content!