Ethanol, Maxime Bouttier’s fabulous address (Géosmine*), sits between a wine bar and a chef’s table.

Three years after opening his excellent restaurant gastronomique Géosmine, and two years after earning a first étoile at the guide Michelin, the chef Maxime Bouttier continues his steady progress in the 11th arrondissement of Paris with a new address: Éthanol.

Located at the corner of Rue de la Folie Méricourt and Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, just steps from Géosmine, this nouveau lieu sits in one of the area’s oldest cordonneries. Still operating a few months ago, the space has been entirely renovated by the atelier d’architecture Leymarie, blending solid oak, tommettes, corten steel and expansive bay windows that overlook the street when the weather is good.

The address presents itself as a hybrid spot: a wine bar at the start of the evening that evolves into a genuine modern dining experience as night falls, where a succession of small plates is shared — a format also offered on weekends at lunchtime. Open from Wednesday to Sunday, Éthanol champions a market kitchen whose menu shifts with arrivals and culinary inspiration.

On paper, the spot first conjures up the Paris fancy of the 11th arrondissement, with its slick décor, an informed clientele, and a spectacular wine cellar. Yet once you're seated, the place feels much warmer than it seems, a warmth largely thanks to the service. Attentive without being stuffy, one of the servers in particular loosened things up a lot, peppering the meal with jokes and solid recommendations, especially around the vins.

Because wine is the other great passion of the house. With more than 400 references drawn from a range of terroirs, nations, and winemaking methods, the cellar impresses as much with its breadth as with the quality of its selection. It’s best to let the staff guide you—the recommendations are notably spot-on.

Here, a remarkable Gewurztraminer orange, surprisingly mineral (€16 per glass), there a Sauvignon blanc already very convincing in the first price tier (€10), here again, an elegant Austrian Cabernet Sauvignon (€15). The lovers of cocktails will also find a few creations (€14), while several craft beers complete the menu.

On the plate, the level is simply remarkable. It was to be expected from a starred chef, but Ethanol goes far beyond just being the "little sister" of Geosmine. This place also makes an excellent alternative when the gastronomic restaurant right next door is fully booked: it’s hard to imagine leaving disappointed when the plates reflect the same attention to quality and precision.

On the table, to start with a bang: a plate of Galician 12-month-aged beef cecina (17€), croquettes of Le Mans rillettes with tarragon ravigote sauce (13€) served piping hot and infinitely nostalgic, and a seared tuna carpaccio with leche de tigre and cherry (16€) boasting unbeatable tenderness.

The dishes live up to the hype, led by a Normandy beef tournedos with green pepper sauce (€27) and sweetbreads with capers and a rich meat jus (€29) that could stand on their own. We deliberately skipped the sides to fully savor the precision of the cooking and the accuracy of the sauces. A demonstration of brilliant mastery, with no frills needed.

The desserts stay true to the same standard: the nage de fraises à la sauce (11€) brings a bright, fresh note, while the Snickers 55° chocolat-cacahuètes (12€) gracefully reinvents a familiar indulgence.

Obviously, such a standard comes at a price, and it’s a steep one. Following the House’s recommendations of 3 à 4 assiettes par personne, and pairing them with two glasses of wine each, you should budget around €100 per guest. The tab is substantial but in line with the quality of the ingredients, with items like Galician cecina, Iberian hams, veal sweetbreads, and other fine beef cuts that testify to a true exigence dans le sourcing.

And then, it's hard not to mention the pretty terrace, bathed in sun for a good part of the evening. While the proximity to the avenue creates a sometimes audible background, the setting remains among the most pleasant for enjoying an outdoor dinner.

• To be read
• Géosmine, chef Maxime Bouttier's first raw, living table
• Wine bars and wine cellars in Paris, our top picks
• New restaurants in Paris, our best addresses

Rarely has a secondary concept housed under a Michelin-starred restaurant felt so much like a standalone experience rather than a merely more accessible offshoot. Ethanol already has its own identity and easily sits among the city’s finest Parisian tables of the year. A destination for fans of chef-driven, authorial cuisine without the ceremony of haute gastronomy.

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This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.