Mersin, the new Turkish street-food gem in Paris

For years, the street food turque has been experiencing a real revival in Paris. After being long reduced to the traditional kebab of late nights, it is gradually reclaiming its former prestige thanks to a new generation of restaurateurs determined to highlight the richness of their culinary heritage.

Among them, Mersin is already emerging as one of the most exciting street-food openings of recent months. Located in the 19th arrondissement, not far from the Buttes-Chaumont and the Secrétan Market Hall, this new spot is led by Noé Lazare, already the brain behind the excellent Gemüse opened in 2018, and his partner Amir Bouceid.

Both share a passion for popular cuisines and travel, a curiosity that sent them scouring the Mediterranean in search of the best sandwiches. It was finally in southern Turkey that they fell in love with tantuni, the iconic dish of the port city of Mersin that lends its name to the restaurant.

With its two counters at opposite ends of the venue, the space that runs from one side to the other blends the vibe of a Parisian bistro with that of a Turkish tavern. The fully open kitchen evokes traditional kebab stalls: the skewer spins in front of diners, vegetables are chopped as service goes on, and the tantuni meat is seared to order in a large pan specially made in Turkey. A transparency that fully enhances the experience!

What also stands out is Noé and his team’s infectious passion for communication. The owner never spares explanations about the origin of his products, his recipes and Turkish culinary traditions. A generosity that immediately makes you want to discover a gastronomic heritage still largely unknown in France.

The entire menu here is crafted in-house with heart, from sauces to garnishes, including marinades and mezzés. The breads are made by Turkish and Armenian artisans, the vegetables are prepared daily, while the meats are marinated for hours before being skewered on-site.

At Mersin, Noé and Amir serve a kebab (9–13€) as hearty and vibrant as at Gemüse, with a rainbow of crudités, fresh cheese, fresh herbs, and a house-made skewer built from veal and turkey marinated for 24 hours, not too fatty, not too dry. Naturally paired with house-made fries spiced up (4€). But the real revelation of the place is above all the tantuni (8–17€)!

Hardly present in Paris, this dürüm originating from the southeast of Turkey is built with finely sliced beef, quickly seared in an oil scented with spices, at the heart of the wide pan visible in the display window. The meat is then rolled into a lavash bread soaked with the pan juices, along with tomatoes, fresh parsley, onions with sumac, and a splash of lemon. The result is surprisingly light, incredibly fragrant, and available in a vegetarian version with a spiced bulgur filling and pomegranate molasses.

Sharing fans will also find their happiness here with a fine lineup of mezzes: tursu (Turkish pickles, €4), labneh with onions and sumac (€5), and ktipiti (feta cream with roasted peppers, €5.50) compose a menu that makes you want to taste everything. Simple-looking preparations, but perfectly executed, where the quality of the ingredients makes all the difference.

Homemade sauces also contribute to the restaurant's identity. Alongside the staples of white sauce and Algerian sauce, there are several original creations, such as a mayonnaise au zaatar et au citron, a sauce tomate fumée, or the Hot Biber inspired by the famous Turkish pepper-and-chili condiment.

We dip into a spread of traditional breads, ranging from lavash (a thin, supple flatbread) to sesame-sprinkled simit (a crisp ring or brioche-like), including soft pide and sesame-and-cheese navettes.

The whole experience is accessible, with affordable menus that let you sample several specialties without blowing the budget: €16 for the mezze menu, €13 for the döner/tantuni menu with fries and a drink, dessert optional. On the dessert front, the siphon chocolate-olive oil-chili mellow (€5) and the semolina cake with syrup (€5) round off the experience nicely.

• To be read
• Turkish restaurants in Paris, our top picks
• Mediterranean and Middle Eastern street food restaurants in Paris, our best addresses
• Middle Eastern restaurants in Paris, our top picks

And to wash it down, we’re happy to toast with the house drinks (€5): sour cherry, spiced tea, spiced cola or ayran, a Turkish fermented-milk beverage. So, who do we thank? Thank you, Mersin!

Turkish restaurants in Paris, our top picks
Flavorful, generous, and deeply convivial, Turkish cuisine is becoming increasingly popular in Paris. With grilled meats, mezze, warm breads, and oriental sweets, Parisian Turkish restaurants invite you on a gourmet journey to the heart of Istanbul and Anatolia. [Read more]

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.