Tamara, Clément Vergeat’s delicate and genius gourmet table

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Published by Manon C. · Photos by Manon C. · Published on 16 May 2022 at 14h38
Two years later, here we are, back at Tamara aka Clément Vergeat’s delicate and inventive table. A gourmet peregrination that went straight to our hearts.

This is a four-step walk that chef Clément Vergeat provides adventurous esthetes with in his Tamara restaurant. Beyond the seas and oceans, vineyards and fields, the young chef – who competed in 2018 Top Chef France – gives the pace to heart-touching peregrinations and provoke a flood of emotions because of the delicateness of platings and the softness of the care taken to even the simplest produces.

When we came to Tamara, shortly after its opening, Clément Vergeat’s fine spirit and mastering touched us. Advocating zero waste and local and seasonal cuisine, the chef chops raw produces, works them head to toe, from stem to leaves and has lots of fun with lots of processes, fermentation, smoking and seasoning first.

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Two years later, the memory of this incredible fried artichoke and crab lives in our mind, so do the garlic and smoked paprika breadcrumbed cauliflower and these 12-day fermented cherry tomatoes to reveal their flavors. But things have changed and evolved a lot in two years, in a good way, and we cannot wrap our head around how this oh-so inventive and creative table has never gotten a star fallen from the sky or the pages of the famous red guide.

Anyway, what matters is that we are happy to keep this little secret and share it with you, attentive foodies. Promising, bold, this table is even more since the chef and his team unveil a 9-course tasting menu in 4 movements, from vegetable to sweet, via surf and turf. And how beautiful is the journey.

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We had the first asparagus of the season in puffed chips, inside a little bouquet of fresh herb, served with oyster mayonnaise, or in tartare, covering some honey crunch. Then, we had delicious slices of sourdough bread spread in homemade butter made with shell and razor clam spikes. And then, we softly went to sea with this oh-so beautifully plated seaweed dish, uplifted with granny smith apple, pickled mustard seeds, bitter radicchio and nasturtium leaves like water lilies, moistens with some fabulous razor clam stock.

Let us go deeper, meeting this sardine with fermented potato and smoked herring roe – then again, special care is given to the juice, some bouillabaisse juice, that we enjoyed with bouillabaisse bread made with the dried trimmings of the fishes used for the stock. As for the troutcooked over low temperature – it is served with lovage chlorophyl, sea urchin, lemon, oyster leaf and pickleweed.

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Before landing, let us enjoy the wild garlic pesto, fresh pea and pickled rhubarb tartlet – we are still dreaming of it. Furthermore, we do not land but take off up in the air with a whole pigeon. This gorgeous meat returns to the kitchen to be cut and is served without any side. Here, the whole delight relies on the beauty of the beast, ideally cooked with long-lasting taste, uplifted by seasoned meat gravy.

Let us stay in the skies with this cloud-like lavender mousse, slightly sweet, preparing the palate to what is yet to come. Let us finish this journey at the foot of a pear tree: roasted and burnt pear mixed with miso and wild garlic ice cream. A final touch, without fuss, but incredibly sapid. I am adamant, Tamara is one of the greatest restaurants in Paris.

 

Practical information

Dates and Opening Time
Starts 13 May 2022

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    Location

    15 Rue de Richelieu
    75001 Paris 1

    Prices
    Menu en 9 services: €110

    Official website
    restaurant-tamara.com

    Booking
    restaurant-tamara.com

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