Almas, when Lebanon, Iran and Russia come together in one restaurant

Cuisine can be a real link between cultures. At Almas, Russia,Iran and Lebanon combine to create a chimerical cuisine. Behind this name, which means"diamond" in three languages, are three chefs who have worked in the kitchens of Nosso and Tempero, the two addresses of chef Alessandra Montagne Gomes: Maryam, Anna and Sandra.

The first is Iranian and started out as a food journalist in France. The second is Russian and studied law before becoming an English teacher. The third is Lebanese and works in graphic design. All three turned to cooking, and were inspired to share their respective childhood memories, cultures and ethical, eco-responsible values.

Thus was born Almas, their little neighborhood canteen not far from the Gare de l'Est. And to crystallize the crossbreeding of these three countries, the three chefs chose a very special dish: pirojki, a bread roll of Russian origin generally filled with meat, cheese, fish or vegetables. At Almas, the fillings are inspired by Persian and Lebanese flavors, following family recipes handed down from generation to generation.

Stuffing recipes also follow the seasons and the arrival of products from local producers and artisans: Biovor, Broko, Azade and Terroirs d'Avenir for vegetables, Laiterie de Paris for dairy products, Tom Saveurs for fish, Shira for spices, and Moulin Gilles Matignon for the flours used in pirojkis.

Whether made with milk and butter or organic olive oil, Almas' pirojkis are golden and plump. The menu features four recipes, two of which are new every week. For those who can't tolerate the gluten in the rolls, it's also possible to enjoy the recipes on a plate.

At the time of our visit, there was a pirojki with eggs, herbs and barberry, a pirojki with saffron carrots and dried fruit, a pirojki with fish, carrots and leeks and a pirojki with chicken, lemon and saffron. These dishes are accompanied by a choice of lentil, chard and lemon soup or beet, watercress and sumac salad, in formulas ranging from €14 to €17.

As for desserts, the buckwheat cake with yoghurt and maple syrup was an excellent way to end on a sweet note, accompanied by a Lebanese coffee. All in all, a very simple but well executed cuisine, accessible at low prices.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.