Laïa Monceau, terrace and Italian restaurant a stone's throw from Parc Monceau

Just a few minutes from Parc Monceau in the rather quiet 8th arrondissement, Laïa Monceau opens in a leafy enclave that allows us to avoid the roadside terraces under the exhaust pipes.

This Mediterranean bistro, designed by the FUGA group, which has created such fine addresses as Riviera Fuga, has the atmosphere of a chic Tuscan villa: wicker furniture, elegant arches, natural materials and Sienna earth tones. The restaurant stretches around a large garden and rooftop vegetable garden, bringing freshness and tranquility right from the doorstep. You can choose where to sit: around the central bar, at the chef's table near the open kitchens, in the light-filled dining room or on the terrace, sheltered in winter and sunny in summer.

Chef Sacha Perrin - a past member of the Simone Zanoni and Gordon Ramsay brigades - infuses his contemporary vision of Italian cuisine into the kitchen. His menu draws inspiration from the South with generosity but without heaviness, playing on straightforward flavors and the right combinations. Seasonal, well-sourced produce is as evident in the freshness of herbs from the in-house kitchen garden as in the choice of wines, sourced from artisan winemakers in Italy, France and Spain.

We start with a fun cocktail that adapts to your mood.

The starters open the ball with a summery lightness. The sea bass crudo with yuzu, combava lemon and coconut milk surprises with its balance of liveliness and sweetness. Beef tartar cannoli with shiitake and wasabi is crisp, with a hint of herbs.

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On the main course, fregola sarda, garnished with mussels and clams, blossoms in a spicy n'duja emulsion. Double-cooked octopus melts under the fork while retaining its chewy texture, accompanied by eggplant caviar and candied artichokes. While the dishes are well prepared, we would have liked to see prettier plates to whet our appetites.

Pasta is a serious business at Laïa: homemade ravioli del Plin, gnocchi with tomato and burratina, and great classics such as pastas pomodoro for children, recall the attention paid to transalpine tradition. For second courses, Milanese-style veal chop or lamb shoulder confit are treated with precision, in a legible and diligent cuisine.

For dessert, the journey continues on sweet shores: brioche perdue with salted butter caramel and ricotta ice cream, strawberry-rhubarb-basil pavlova or " Laïamisu " offer Italian sweets with a personal touch. A special mention goes to the mascarpone ice cream at the heart of the tiramisu, which adds a welcome freshness.

The lunchtime menu, available weekdays from €29, offers a gentle introduction to this fine cuisine, with a children's menu to suit curious eaters. The glassed-in cellar displays its wine treasures, to be discovered by the glass or bottle, reinforcing the impression of dolce vita.

In short, if you're looking for a large, charming restaurant with a lovely green terrace that smells of Italy, Laïa Monceau could be just what you're looking for. Laïa Monceau is ideal for both a lunch in the countryside and a candlelit dinner. With its wide, open space and a range of different areas, this restaurant caters for all tastes.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.