Niní Restaurant, the place where Italian tradition meets author-driven cuisine

Paris is not short on Italian addresses, yet few manage to break free from the great transalpine classics to offer a truly chef-driven cuisine. That’s precisely the bet of Niní, a new bistro in the 10th arrondissement, where Victor Kalczuga and Fabio Massimo Liuzza sign a contemporary Franco-Italian menu.

Behind this name, a fond nickname Italians use for children in certain regions, lie two complementary paths. In the kitchen, Fabio Massimo Liuzza, a native of Rome, has honed his craft across England, Denmark and Paris, including at the Grand Bain in Belleville.

In the dining room, Victor Kalczuga, French by birth but deeply rooted in Italian culture and in the cooking handed down by his grandparent restaurateurs, brings his wine expertise after years in that world. The result? A bistro that never aims to mirror traditional recipes, but rather to forge its own musical signature.

The Italian inspirations are very much present, but they interact with the French produce and even allow themselves some detours toward Asia and Latin America. This freedom gives rise to a remarkably inventive cuisine, where vegetables play a central role, yet it doesn’t forget fans of meat, fish, or even offal.

Set in a former Chinese restaurant, Niní has completely transformed the space. Gone are the hallmarks of its previous occupant, replaced by pared-down, minimalist décor. And when the weather cooperates, the terrace along the avenue is a real asset for the restaurant.

In the evening, the menu is thoughtfully designed. It lets you build a traditional meal (starter/main course/dessert) just as easily as you can load up on sharing plates, choosing from four starters, three mains, and four desserts. In the team’s view, you should budget about 3 to 4 plates per person.

At lunchtime, Niní leans more into its Italian heritage with an affordable set menu that spotlights the chef's pasta and several updated classics – vitello tonnato, pappa al pomodoro and other orzotto with wild garlic. As for pricing, expect €21 for a starter/main or main/dessert, and €26 for a starter/main/dessert.

During our visit on a sweltering July evening, our unquestioned favorite was the pork-cheek croquettes (10€). Crispy on the outside, melt-in-the-mouth at the center, they’re served with chimichurri and a hint of horseradish. Another standout is the line-caught tuna loin (15€), paired with stracciatella, peppers, and a generous herb salad.

The green pea risotto (18€), enriched with mussels, fresh garlic, and bottarga, and the marinated eggplant (14€), paired with blackberries, labneh, and a salsa macha, round out the savory courses before finishing with a slice of ricotta cheesecake with cherries (10€), light and indulgent.

Wine lovers will also find their match thanks to a cellar largely devoted to natural wines. The selection mainly highlights French producers, while leaving space for a handful of Italian labels to complement this multi-influenced cuisine.

• To be read
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With its inventive cuisine, a warm welcome, and a pleasant terrace, this new address already has all the ingredients to become one of the most enticing bistros in the neighborhood!

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.