The story of the bistro begins in 2002, when Alain Ducasse and Thierry de la Brosse fall in love with the charm of an establishment, Aux Lyonnais, created in 1890. The place, today protected as a historical monument, has kept its red wooden façade and its "Maison Lyonnaise" sign and puts us unconsciously in the atmosphere of the traditional Lyonnais bouchons.
As soon as you enter, woodwork and moldings with floral motifs, light fixtures and "subway" earthenware on the wall, photos from the last century, sofas and a large buffet on the first floor transport us to another universe, slowing down time, the time of a meal. It's almost like being at home: here, the dishes are served in casseroles, and many dishes are shared between guests.
The menu invites us to travel, labeled "Les Bouchons Lyonnais" since 2014. This Lyon label guarantees that the quality of the products, the cuisine, the welcome and the atmosphere respect the gastronomic heritage of Lyon. Also, on the menu, we find pot de la cuisinière lyonnaise, tripe à la lyonnaise, pig's feet, quenelles à la lyonnaise, black pudding à la lyonnaise and calf's liver in persillade.
These forgotten dishes, often rejected, the chef Francis Fauvel wanted to bring them up to date "by adding a touch of modernity to make them lighter, more accessible and even more tasty, while respecting tradition and preserving the associations of tastes".
The dishes are a delight. The charcuterie, served as a starter, is simply exquisite. We have the pleasure of tasting grattons, small pieces of fat of pigs browned in their juice.
Then, we tried the potato cookpot, a revisited version of the tartiflette: the melting potatoes were very well accompanied by the Saint-Félicien cheese, very runny and the truffle, very well brought. Not to mention the quenelle de Lyon, with crayfish sauce, which had a good hold in the mouth and was very homogeneous.
These dishes are all enhanced by the choices of Gérard Margeon, head sommelier of Alain Ducasse's restaurants, and Rudy Reis, sommelier of the restaurant "Aux Lyonnais". The sommeliers of the restaurant propose almost perfect food/wine pairings, without any false note. The wines offered by the glass reveal another reading of the dishes, and allow an exceptional experience.
This experience is exalted at dessert time, with very fragrant wines, with peach or woody notes, which awaken the famous Paris-Grenoble of chef Alain-Ducasse, a Paris-Brest with walnuts to die for, or the citrus soufflé, divinely light in the mouth.
Aux Lyonnais is the quintessence of bistronomy: a relaxed atmosphere, counter noise, hubbub, but dishes worthy of the best restaurants, all at a rather reasonable price (count about 60€ a la carte with menus at 35€!).
In short, if you feel like having a little Lyonnais bouchon without taking the TGV, you know where to go!
Practical information
Website : Aux Lyonnais
Location : 32, rue St Marc - 75002 Paris
Open from Tuesday to Friday, mini and evening and Saturday for dinner
Tariffs : menu at 35€ - see the map
Location
To the people of Lyon
32 Rue Saint-Marc
75002 Paris 2
Access
M° Richelieu Drouot
Prices
Menu déjeuner: €32
menu dîner: €35
à la carte: €60
More information
Open Tuesday to Friday, mini and evening and Saturday dinner