Jason Gouzy 's Michelin-starred Pantagruel restaurant has moved to the 1st arrondissement, and it's Panurge, the chef's new restaurant named after another Rabelaisian character, that has taken up residence in his little slippers, at 24 rue du Sentier.
"Very attached to the setting where Pantagruel was built, it was impossible for me to say goodbye to this address. Although I'm passionate about haute gastronomy, I've also always had in mind the dream of founding a convivial home for bon vivants. This bourgeois kitchen is the symbol of my childhood gourmet emotions," explains the chef, who worked in the kitchens of Epicure at the Bristol and the 1* Baudelaire restaurant at the Burgundy Hotel. What I'm trying to find is Proust's Madeleine; getting the memory of gustatory emotions to work is very important to me."
At Panurge, Jason Gouzy interprets bourgeois cuisine in his own way, in the purest French tradition but with a certain elegance and culinary techniques brought back from his native Japan by head chef Tomoyuki 'Tomo' Uchida.
With its opulent decor (white tablecloths, retro crockery reminiscent of large family meals, comfortable blanquettes), intimate setting and welcoming service, this epicurean restaurant honors the great classics of French cuisine , particularly bourgeois cuisine, a cuisine of dishes in sauce that stands out for the comfort it provides and the convivial spirit that surrounds it.
By definition, Panurge is less cerebral than Pantagruel, more straightforward in taste and seasoning. With a seasonal menu and responsible sourcing of French produce, chef Jason Gouzy has successfully paid tribute to this tasteful domestic cuisine, while also reviving a tradition that has until recently been forgotten, but which has recently found its way back into Parisian restaurants: the semainier.
Every day at lunchtime, Panurge unveils an affordable lunch menu (€30 for a starter/main course/dessert), although it's also possible to opt for the à la carte proposals - particularly short, three starters, three main courses, one cheese and two desserts - at noon too.
These include the excellent pâté en croûte (foie gras, duck, pig, pistachios; 22€), very generously served and rich in foie gras, the catch of the day (beryx; 36€) in marinière sauce with bouchot mussels, coco de paimpol and basil pistou ; as well as the civet de biche (the hunting season has begun; 32€), brought to the table in a casserole dish and served with a pan of autumn vegetables, celeriac purée and a very reduced and concentrated sauce, a delight.
Another choice is the vegetarian version of vol-au-vent, which varies with the season depending on the vegetables available (at the moment, an amazing tomato vol-au-vent).
The same care is taken with the chiseled desserts, like this fig tart (15€) with fresh figs and others devilishly candied in red wine, buckwheat and spice ice cream. The perfect way to end a lunch in sauce.
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.
Location
Panurge
24 Rue du Sentier
75002 Paris 2
Official website
www.restaurant-panurge.com
