IRWIN, chef Irwin Durand’s fine-dining restaurant, between terroir and memory

Embark on a sapid and memorable escapade on the arm of Irwin Durand. The young chef, long Guy Savoy's right-hand man, has opened his first restaurant in Paris, which he has soberly named IRWIN.

In mid-April,Irwin Durand opened his first restaurant as chef-owner in Paris. Soberly named IRWIN, this restaurant marks an important step in the career of this young 35-year-old talent, already crowned with two successive Michelin stars, one during his time at Alan Geaam, the other at Chiberta.

Located in the heart of Paris's Golden Triangle, this new establishment reflects the singular vision of a chef who is just as singular: that of a bold cuisine, rooted in French terroirs and inspired by his childhood memories. With IRWIN, the chef wishes to celebrate his roots and pay tribute to his great-grandmother, Irma Durand, a true source of inspiration for him.

"This project allows me to fully share my vision of cuisine: a cuisine of taste, textures and creation, where each plate is an invitation to rediscover the richness of our terroirs," details the chef. "It's a tribute to my great-grandmother Irma Durand, who has always been a life force and an example to me. Through this project, it's her tenacity that I'm celebrating, by opening my table with the same passion and perseverance she passed on to me."

In an intimate, contemporary setting designed by JOD architecture, guests discover an atmosphere of chiaroscuro and carefully selected materials - burnt wood walls, backlit stone basins, concave benches to curl up on. IRWIN is also distinguished by its various adjoining spaces: a first room accommodating 22 guests in a refined décor, a second, even more intimate room that can welcome 8 to 10 guests around a large table d'hôtes, facing the open kitchen.

In collaboration with executive chef Camille Larquemin, Irwin Durand unveils a constantly evolving menu, featuring local produce and flavors of yesteryear twisted with a certain contemporary audacity, in a move that aims to redefine the codes of haute cuisine.

"My cuisine is a journey through memories, a return to the sensations of childhood, but with the precision and boldness of a Michelin-starred chef. Each dish is designed to surprise and amaze, while remaining rooted in the simplicity of our first gustatory emotions," explains Irwin Durand, who offers 3-, 5- and 7-course menus for lunch, and 5-, 7- and 9-course menus for dinner.

And so our lunch begins under the Corsican sun, with this brocciu-based bread in the style of a Corsican migliacciu, an intense and precise memory of the vacation Irwin spent with his grandparents, for 12 years, on the Isle of Beauty. Simply topped with Nyons olive oil, rosemary and a small herb salad, it's a little delight of purity and simplicity.

Then it's on to more reverent French cuisine, not without first cleansing the palate with a marjoram-infused vegetable broth, with simply roasted green asparagus topped with a lemon thyme mayonnaise, and turbot with seaweed, escorted by a hearty turbot jus and artichoke tartlet in different textures.

But it's whenIrwin Durand takes us by the hand, one foot in front of the other through the regional terroir and his own memorial territory, that he manages to touch the heart even more, as with this pork and chard rennet, chlorophyll and tarragon juice, a proud heritage of his Ardèche roots that hits right where it feels good.

Going against the grain, the desserts are resolutely contemporary and creative: a delicate, lactic pre-dessert with fermented milk chantilly and raw cream, almond milk jelly and crispy milk skin; then a dessert based on vanilla and white miso, in the form of ice cream, cremeux, praline and gavotte. Round flavors for a chiseled presentation, the work of the young pastry chef, and a star on the horizon next year for IRWIN.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.