L'Arrêt by The Grey, where chef Mashama Bailey brings Southern US cuisine to Paris

Chef Mashama Bailey is making her mark on Paris with L’Arrêt by The Grey, a European-inspired extension of her iconic restaurant The Grey. Founded in 2014 in Savannah, Georgia, it has since become a culinary landmark.

Honored with the esteemed James Beard Foundation Award (chef of the year 2022), Mashama Bailey— the first African American female chef to be featured as a protagonist in an episode of the documentary series Chef's Table— exemplifies one of the leading faces in the spotlight of African American cuisine and history.

Her work is rooted in Georgia, a state with a heavy history of segregation, where the dining table once symbolized division before evolving into a space for cultural reclaiming. Together with her partner and friend Johno Morisano, she crafts a culinary narrative that celebrates the diverse stories of the African diaspora—stories shaped by migration, exchange, and resilience.

Named after its Parisian address, L'Arrêt pays homage to the central role that buses and lunch counters played in shaping the American South throughout the 20th century.

Recently opened in the 7th arrondissement, L’Arrêt by The Grey draws on a talented creative team, including artistic director Zan Goodman and interior designer Steven Millotti. They have designed the space to steer clear of American diner clichés, opting instead for a classic Parisian bistro style that pays homage to the restaurant's historical roots—the former Café L'Espérance that once occupied this spot—by preserving the marble counter and vintage lighting fixtures from the 1970s.

In the kitchen, the chef puts a modern twist on the Southern American cuisine, blending African, Creole, Caribbean, and European influences. It’s a melting pot of flavors, spices, sauces, and smoking techniques—long associated with rustic fare, but now proudly recognized as gourmet cuisine.

In the initial months of opening, the chef largely played it safe with a fusion and bistro-inspired approach, Mashama Bailey now fully unleashes her culinary voice, serving dishes that speak fluent Southern U.S. English with confident authenticity. For lunch, the menu features just three starters, five main courses, a cheese plate, and three desserts, along with two set menu options: €25 for starter and main or main and dessert, or €34 for starter, main, and dessert. The menu still includes four Sandwiches “by Mashama” (ranging from €9 to €21), like a classic Croque-Monsieur, a Croque-Madame, and the Grey Market burger (€21), offering a subtle nod to transatlantic flavors.

During our visit on a weekday lunchtime: crispy roasted chicken infused with fragrant Cajun spices (€21), served with matcha salsa and cornille beans, alongside deviled eggs topped with trout roe (similar to American-style stuffed eggs; €9), a fresh radicchio salad drizzled with a sauce reminiscent of vitello tonnato, and a generous slice of Pecan Pie (€10 for a piece big enough for two), crowned with a scoop of Syrian halva ice cream.

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While the morning (breakfast with eggs and bacon) mirrors the evening, the menu takes on an even more Southern vibe, offering a bold, straightforward take that’s still too rare in Paris: smoked duck breast, mac and cheese, cornbread, mashed potatoes with gravy, and Hoppin’ John (a classic dish of rice and beans from the American South).

With its , its (you can relax in the quieter basement area, in a vaulted privately-bookable room), and a charming for sunny days, L'Arrêt by The Grey is moving forward at full speed!