Some places have an atmosphere you can imagine before you even step through the door. That’s the case with Brasserie Casel, just steps from the Théâtre du Châtelet in the 1st arrondissement, a new opening this culinary season and the latest addition to the La Nouvelle Garde group, which is already behind the Bellanger, Dubillot, Martin and des Prés brasseries in Paris.
This new establishment embraces an identity inspired by its theatrical surroundings and, for the occasion, unveils the classic décor of a Parisian brasserie as depicted in the movies: a cosy setting, white tablecloths and traditionally dressed waiters darting between tables. It would take very little to make you expect Yves Montand to appear, straight out of Garçon!, a white apron tied around his waist, pitching in with the staff on a busy evening.
La Nouvelle Garde’s new address cultivates an atmosphere that’s more elegant than its big sisters, which are more bistro-style and a little more bohemian. The world of live entertainment makes its presence felt in subtle touches: large burgundy velvet curtains frame the dining room, alongside Versailles parquet flooring and olive-fabric tufted armchairs, while posters evoking Parisian nights of yesteryear complete this delightfully retro scene on the walls.
In a convivial atmosphere (people speak loudly, the place is lively and bustling, but never deafening), diners peruse a menu featuring the expected classics of any self-respecting Parisian brasserie: escargots, pâté en croûte, deviled eggs, foie gras, French onion soup and frog legs, followed by sausage and mashed potatoes, steak tartare, steak frites and veal blanquette (€24).
The latter proves to be a delicate dish, with meat that’s been slow-cooked until it falls apart, tender vegetables and a wonderfully mellow sauce. But our favorite is a far more unusual dish: the bone marrow brioche (€12), a homemade Parisian-style brioche filled with parsley-flecked beef marrow, to dip in a particularly robust Madeira jus. Original and flawlessly executed, it’s worth the trip all by itself!
In reality, the big new development at Brasserie Casel, compared with its predecessors, is on the second page of the menu, which gives pride of place to dry-aged meats, a nod to the history of this neighborhood, once shaped by the meat trade.
This is right here, in the restaurant’s basement, that the cuts of meat are aged in a fully glass-enclosed cellar: aged Normande and Simmental beef (€48 and €60 per person, respectively, for two diners), veal hanger steak with shallots (€24), or aged duck cooked on the carcass (€32 per person, for two diners).
To finish on a high note, Paris-Brest, crème brûlée, Opéra and crêpes Suzette (evenings only) round out a menu that fully embraces the classics. But the generous portions mean you have to choose: after a starter and a main course, there’s rarely much room left for dessert!
At a time when traditional French cuisine has been making a real comeback for nearly a decade, Brasserie Casel isn’t revolutionizing the genre. But La Nouvelle Garde deserves credit for knowing exactly how to do things right, offering within these four walls a lively spot, serious cooking and dishes that stand out!
This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.
Dates and Opening Time
Next days
Wednesday:
from 12:00 a.m. to 11:59 p.m.
Thursday:
from 12:00 a.m. to 11:59 p.m.
Friday:
from 12:00 a.m. to 11:59 p.m.
Saturday:
from 12:00 a.m. to 11:59 p.m.
Sunday:
from 12:00 a.m. to 11:59 p.m.
Monday:
from 12:00 a.m. to 11:59 p.m.
Tuesday:
from 12:00 a.m. to 11:59 p.m.
Location
Casel Brewery
16 Avenue Victoria
75001 Paris 1
Route planner
Official website
lanouvellegarde.com
