Comptoir Lazu by chef Rémi Lazurowicz, inspired dishes, fine wines and 80's ambience

Chef Rémi Lazurowicz is a happy father. This La Régalade alumnus, who cut his teeth as second-in-command to chef Bruno Doucet, unveiled his second child this autumn, opposite his first. While the first offspring, which opened in 2018 at rue Marguerite de Rochechouart, is called Lazu and offers creative bistronomic cuisine d'auteur, the second is simply called Comptoir Lazu.

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New Year's Eve 2026 menu at Comptoir Lazu
€150/person, €75 wine pairing, €45 non-alcoholic pairing

Scallops with Melanosporum truffles, celery with brown butter and pickles 

Foie gras with port and cognac, Corsican clementine puff pastry and sorbet

Pan-fried wild mushrooms, pearly John Dory and spinach stuffed with oysters

Mallard duck cooked two ways, pink fillet and confit leg, creamy butternut squash, salsify, grape salmis sauce

Calvados baba, apple variations, tagete

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Nostalgic for troquets open at all hours of the day, the chef wanted to offer a neighborhood haunt open non-stop from 8am to midnight, where people come simply for morning coffee, have lunch with dishes of the day, pop in for a sneaky afternoon drink, and enjoy drinks and nibbles in the evening. And so Comptoir Lazu was born.

Like a tribute to the working-class Paris of the '80s, the address features bright primary colors, antique furniture and a zinc counter just like in those days. In the morning, it's coffee and Viennese pastries, and even boiled eggs for those who love them! At lunchtime, the slate unveils bistro-style proposals in two affordable lunch menus: €19 starter/main course or main course/dessert, €24 starter/main course/dessert, with a choice of two starters, two main courses and three desserts.

During our visit, on the weekly menu - which is also available on Saturday lunchtimes: a lentil salad as a starter, topped with a perfect egg and a reduced red wine vinaigrette; a fine piece of trout confit with a beurre blanc sauce spiked with preserved lemon and spinach. A deceptively simple but truly gourmet cuisine, right through to dessert, a Fontainebleau with mirabelle plums.

In the evening, it's all about nibbling with friends, with a more elaborate menu of small plates to share (5€-25€). Among the works of the chef and his second-in-command, Bastien Janick, to be found at sunset on the menu of Comptoir Lazu: terrine de cochon, oeufs mayo à la bourrache, oîtres fines de claire et gel pomme-aneth, gnudis recouverts de salsa verde...

And let's not forget the sea side (lean beef crudo with aguachile; pink trout confit in sorrel sauce; red tuna sando ) and the land side (breaded beef chuck with grapefruit tartar sauce; beef onglet with pepper jus, ponzu eggplant and shiso; pork ribs confit, BBQ jus). Something for every appetite!

The lentil-based falafels (12€) will reconcile those disappointed by this (alas) often dry Levantine specialty, being here particularly tender and spiced with cumin, all the more so as they are dipped in a tasty hummus. Another wonderful discovery are the two types of zucchini (12€), served roasted and raw, finely sliced with a mandolin, with different seasonings for each cooking. The stracciatella and hint of mint add a welcome touch of freshness.

As for the beef tataki (17€), it sums up chef Rémi Lazurowicz's cuisine, with a plate beautifully laid out in a ying-yang style, on one side the tender meat and its full-bodied, peppery jus, on the other a cold eggplant in the style of a caponata and its ponzu broth. Two sauces that, when blended, form a third, transforming the dish as it is eaten.

• To be read
• Continuous service restaurants in Paris, our best addresses
• Bistronomic restaurants in Paris, our best addresses
• Affordable bistronomic restaurants in Paris with a €30 lunch menu (starter/main course/dessert)

Comptoir Lazu 's other strong point (in addition to its attentive, smiling service) is, of course, its selection of fine wines, available by the glass (around €7-€9 a glass) and by the bottle (from €27), such as the 'A bouche que veux-tu' vintage from domaine Les Terres Promises. An address that's right on all counts.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.